new to wvo, high expectations.

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new to wvo, high expectations.

Postby akcoalroller » Tue Aug 07, 2012 10:48 pm

Hey guys, I've been collecting wvo for a little while now and almost have my filtration setup done. I purchased design plans online for the filtration setup. Have a 1/2hp pump to filter the oil from the dirty 55gallon drum to the clean 55gallon drum. All oil heated before transfer. The oil is to be filtered down to 5microns then suppose to be safe to use pending test results. I have several hundred gallons as of right now. My two vehicles to work with are a 1997 dodge ram 2500 12v (best engine cummins made for light duty trucks imo) also a 1981 Volkswagen rabbt 1.6l n/a (got it for free pulled it out of a field lol) took me four days to get the car running and its been doing great for months. I am a diesel tech by trade and I believe that this oil should have no problem being burnt through my vehicles. I'm not requiring myself to run wvo during winter but if i can find a safe way of doing so i will. I am trying to be inexpensive but not fully sure if that's going to be possible. I currently run jetA in both vehicles full time, and ulsd when I feel like it. I have read threads that state that preheating can be nessasary depending on weather. The rabbit is stock with a twin filter setup, the cummins has a few mods to the injectionpump but nothing extreme (possibly 150-180hp over stock, guessing). I would prefer to blend fuels or just run straight wvo if possible. Looking for safe ways to do this while running single tank systems if possible is preheating going to be nessasary if weather is below 50 degrees f? Any help or comments will be greatly appriciated. Very excited for this project! Thanks in advance.
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Re: new to wvo, high expectations.

Postby John Galt » Wed Aug 08, 2012 2:18 am

Test the filtered VO to be sure it has less than 500ppm water or it will damage the fuel system. The PHO and fats in most UVO will clog filters and screens below 50°F. I run FPHE heated blends of UVO, BD , jetA, jetB and ULSD in my single tank system throughout the year to about 30 below.
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Re: new to wvo, high expectations.

Postby akcoalroller » Wed Aug 08, 2012 9:49 am

John Galt wrote:Test the filtered VO to be sure it has less than 500ppm water or it will damage the fuel system. The PHO and fats in most UVO will clog filters and screens below 50°F. I run FPHE heated blends of UVO, BD , jetA, jetB and ULSD in my single tank system throughout the year to about 30 below.

any particular ratios you find work better for winter vs summer? And does your fphe run all the time? And where I could fine one perhaps.......?
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Re: new to wvo, high expectations.

Postby akcoalroller » Fri Aug 10, 2012 10:05 am

Processed about 25 gallons last night. Drained off what settled at the bottom. Testing for water on Sunday. Then go from there
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Re: new to wvo, high expectations.

Postby John Galt » Fri Aug 10, 2012 11:31 am

And does your fphe run all the time?

yes

And where I could fine one perhaps.......?

got it off e-bay
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Re: new to wvo, high expectations.

Postby akcoalroller » Sat Aug 11, 2012 9:41 pm

I'll have to take a look. I got the oil up to 250 degrees farenheight and no boil no cracking no nothing so it seems to be good oil!
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Re: new to wvo, high expectations.

Postby Renntag » Mon Aug 20, 2012 9:21 am

The two vehicles you mention can burn SVO without issue. We cant tell the level of ease of VO use in winter without knowing where you live.

So assuming ambient temps in your area are in the 30s in the winter, no problem at all. Start and purge on diesel, kero, HHO, what ever, and run on VO. If temps are zero to low 20s, then insulating the tank, heat exchanger, and lines would be smart. I run VO all year here in Virginia. Even when temps are in the 20s, I can run on straight VO with a flat plate heat exchanger and closed loop feed.

I regularly set a sample of my current oil, and new oil coming in, in a glass jar and leave outside to see if it clouds and at what temp. Even when the oil starts to cloud, it flows. With a heated pick up, and heated lines, there is no issue at winter temps.

Forget blending. Add a second tank and switching valves and do it right. During the summer, you can run 60-75% VO in your main tank to reduce your petroleum cost. Run less vo if you worry about ring coking. Either way, as long as your oil is clean, you should be fine.

Note: No where in this discussion have I read about settling. Allowing your oil to settle is the best tool you have. Settling at a stable temp (not exposed to sunlight, making thermal currents in the oil) is key. You then draw perfect oil off the top, run it through a filter and you should be good.
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Re: new to wvo, high expectations.

Postby akcoalroller » Wed Aug 22, 2012 10:09 am

Thank you, that's helpful. It actually got to 36 degrees today. I live in alaska :/ so either way I am looking at doing a two tank system in the future. My cummins will probably be left alone for now and the VW will get parked in winter for the most part, I have a feeling that little engine isn't going to like winter time. And now I have another issue to tend to. Recently I noticed that my oil had been contaminated with water. Any help as to what i can do to dewater it? In a newbie perspective please, I started reading through the dewatering section and I wasn't following along the greatest. Not accepting oil from the place that got water in it any more unless the dewatering process can be simplified. Thanks in advance.
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Re: new to wvo, high expectations.

Postby John Galt » Wed Aug 22, 2012 1:31 pm

I started reading through the dewatering section and I wasn't following along the greatest.


ask specific questions
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Re: new to wvo, high expectations.

Postby Renntag » Wed Aug 22, 2012 4:39 pm

Most water falls out with settling.
Take a sample of your oil and test it on a hot skillet.
This is a rudimentary test for visible water. If it bubbles or splatters, you have water.
If not, then the water content is too low to tell.

Note that in many cases, water is a great way to gets contaminants to fall out.
Note that BioDiesel is washed with water. The water settles out and takes crap with it.

It's that easy.

Put a large jar of your oil on the side and watch it settle.

Best of luck.
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Re: new to wvo, high expectations.

Postby John Galt » Wed Aug 22, 2012 6:52 pm

If it bubbles or splatters, you have water.

True
If not, then the water content is too low to tell.

False

about72.html
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Re: new to wvo, high expectations.

Postby Renntag » Wed Aug 22, 2012 6:59 pm

John, I have to disagree with the "false" comments above. Sorry.
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Re: new to wvo, high expectations.

Postby John Galt » Wed Aug 22, 2012 7:32 pm

Renntag wrote:John, I have to disagree with the "false" comments above. Sorry.

No need to be sorry that you don't understand the water tests at the link provided.
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Re: new to wvo, high expectations.

Postby Renntag » Wed Aug 22, 2012 8:14 pm

Didnt see a link when I browsed on my mobile device.
I might have if it were referenced. :o
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Re: new to wvo, high expectations.

Postby Renntag » Wed Aug 22, 2012 8:38 pm

Sorry to be crass, but the last few posts have set the tone here.
Clearly John did not understand what I was trying to say, nor care to take a moment to do so.

John Galt wrote:
If it bubbles or splatters, you have water.

True
If not, then the water content is too low to tell.

False

about72.html


From the poorly labeled link above:
The Crackle Test is reportedly only sensitive to free and emulsified water.


This ties into what I was trying to say. Allow me to explain.
Those that have put oil onto a hot pan or similar have seen bubbles created by water vaporizing.
When we do not see bubbles, this does not mean there is no water in the sample, given the inherent inaccuracy of this method.
This is why I mentioned " water content is too low to tell." I should have added "For this method". I can see how someone might get the wrong impression that I was stating that the water level was far too low to tell with ANY method of detection. This is not the case.


John Galt wrote:
Renntag wrote:John, I have to disagree with the "false" comments above. Sorry.

No need to be sorry that you don't understand the water tests at the link provided.


I still think that comments like these are just unnecessary. There are better ways to communicate.
I expect more from John Galt.
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