1997 dodge 2500 conversion

For discussing the modifications needed for diesel vehicles to run with 2 tank veggie oil conversions.

Moderators: SunWizard, coachgeo

Re: 1997 dodge 2500 conversion

Postby SunWizard » Fri Sep 20, 2013 9:56 am

You don't cap the return, you tee it together into the original return. You cap where the return used to go on top of filter. see my diagram linked above to understand, where I said:
you have to cut the existing injector drain manifold (small line) going into the top of the stock fuel filter and cap that line, and tee the injector drain line into the IP return line, so the small amount of WVO in there gets sent back to the proper tank.

Sounds like air leaks which are the most common problem.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
SunWizard
Site Admin
 
Posts: 1719
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:53 pm
Location: N. Colorado

Re: 1997 dodge 2500 conversion

Postby gudgean » Fri Sep 20, 2013 4:39 pm

now i need to repair or replace that line and tie it into the return as well because i started to blow all the copper washers. so i replaced them. then the "T" on the 1/4 line that sends the return over the head. blew and sprayed fuel everywhere. cracked right out.

now, where do i find one of those cheaply?,,like yesterday.

again not a diesel mechanic...but i will get this done! splice in a 1/4 " compression "T" make it fit. try again.
gudgean
 
Posts: 18
Joined: Thu Aug 29, 2013 5:40 pm

Re: 1997 dodge 2500 conversion

Postby gudgean » Sun Sep 22, 2013 7:26 pm

IT RUNS!!!! couple leaks but runs good and the comp does its job like it should. now i just gotta tune it in and program the system. pics coming .

That line is actually a 3/16 line not 1/4" so i made 2 trips to the hdwr store redo a few things, re dress wires and button it all down. and test drive.
gudgean
 
Posts: 18
Joined: Thu Aug 29, 2013 5:40 pm

Re: 1997 dodge 2500 conversion

Postby gudgean » Mon Sep 23, 2013 1:08 pm

running good now. i just question the heat. at idle with wvo the oil temp rises but at running t 75 on the highway the oil temp drops real low down to below 100 degrees. what gives?

i realize that the oil will take a little more to get used to but i thought the oil needed to be about 150 before running it.

sunwizard. what are the normal operating temps for your truck?
gudgean
 
Posts: 18
Joined: Thu Aug 29, 2013 5:40 pm

Re: 1997 dodge 2500 conversion

Postby SunWizard » Mon Sep 23, 2013 6:58 pm

gudgean wrote:sunwizard. what are the normal operating temps for your truck?

160-190F at all times and even at -10F. But I have tube in hose which adds a lot, plus a 26 plate FPHE. Do you have those?
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
SunWizard
Site Admin
 
Posts: 1719
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:53 pm
Location: N. Colorado

Re: 1997 dodge 2500 conversion

Postby gudgean » Tue Sep 24, 2013 5:33 am

at your injectors?

h.i.h.yup. 10 plate fphe, and heated oil filter wrap, and hot fox pick up in the tank.

read back through the posts.
gudgean
 
Posts: 18
Joined: Thu Aug 29, 2013 5:40 pm

Re: 1997 dodge 2500 conversion

Postby SunWizard » Tue Sep 24, 2013 8:06 am

gudgean wrote:at your injectors?.

No, its too hard to measure there. My temps are in the flow right before the IP.
h.i.h.yup. 10 plate fphe, and heated oil filter wrap, and hot fox pick up in the tank.

Thats probably it, 10 plates is not enough for the flow on the truck at speed. The filter wrap and pickup only add about +5F combined. Is it aluminum tube in hose? (TiH) and for what distance? That adds a lot of heat. My TiH is about 6' long.

Also make sure your thermostat is working, they go bad often and mine was bad when I bought the truck. You can tell if your temp guage is always too low and not reaching 180-190F.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
SunWizard
Site Admin
 
Posts: 1719
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:53 pm
Location: N. Colorado

Re: 1997 dodge 2500 conversion

Postby gudgean » Wed Oct 02, 2013 11:17 am

Sunwizard,, i know this is your site and you are the moderator, so please take this criticism with a grain of salt and not feel as if i am coming down on you. Just the design.

Ok , so i have been chasing leaks and replacing that crap fuel line that i was wrongly lead to believe would be fine for this application despite the words"NOT FOR FUEL INJECTION" stamped right on it.Stuff swelled up and burst.

Heat is ok now but the H.I.H. that sunwizard posted is really weak. The weak link in that design is the alluminum line used inside the heater hose. Being very soft,, the compression fitting is almost impossible to seal up and not leak. As soon as you tighten it down so it doesnt move you think it is fine and will be good to go but the moment you bump or breath on to hard the aluminum bends and the little compression collar in the fitting no longer seals. The heat is transfered nicely but god the LEAKS!!!There has to be better, stronger al line available for the application.
By all means do the h.i.h. , but spend the money and make sure you get the pex style design.

You must use quality hose clamps and lots of teflon tape.Chinese clamps are junk and brake easy.

In retrospect i would like to warn any would be grease burners to save up and buy an entire kit from a reputable supplier.For your vehicle. You will get a kit with full instructions and the backing of a company that has done all this before....And you do not need to make endless trips to the hardware store or wait for the parts they do not have to arrive in the mail.

Sunwizards blueprint was essential for me but read it over like 20 times before you start . It can be confusing.
There are no places on the net that has a step by step for my truck (97 dodge 12 valve cummins ) so many of the mounting places used are blocked by the abs system.Take the starter out to access the underside of the engine compartment. Trust me you will need the room to work.

Trying to get info from the net from someone who has done this,, when you need it, not 12 hrs later,,, is near impossible. If you build your system yourself you are on your own.

Still have pics to download but i do not have time today.
gudgean
 
Posts: 18
Joined: Thu Aug 29, 2013 5:40 pm

Re: 1997 dodge 2500 conversion

Postby SunWizard » Wed Oct 02, 2013 12:00 pm

gudgean wrote:Ok , so i have been chasing leaks and replacing that crap fuel line that i was wrongly lead to believe would be fine for this application despite the words"NOT FOR FUEL INJECTION" stamped right on it.Stuff swelled up and burst.

That text is to prevent someone using it on the high pressure side of fuel injection, which is >1000psi. Its fine to 50 psi, as is labeled on the hose, and our trucks lift pump are regulated to 35 psi max, so that hose is fine and has worked for hundreds of people, and has worked great for me for >7 years. Your burst since you hooked it up wrong with no return, which can make > 50 psi. Not a problem when hooked up right.
Heat is ok now but the H.I.H. that sunwizard posted is really weak. The weak link in that design is the alluminum line used inside the heater hose. Being very soft,, the compression fitting is almost impossible to seal up and not leak. As soon as you tighten it down so it doesnt move you think it is fine and will be good to go but the moment you bump or breath on to hard the aluminum bends and the little compression collar in the fitting no longer seals. The heat is transfered nicely but god the LEAKS!!!There has to be better, stronger al line available for the application. By all means do the h.i.h. , but spend the money and make sure you get the pex style design.

Pex doesn't transfer heat very well, aluminum is far better. Pex heat transfer is so bad its not worth doing TiH with it, might as well do hoses wrapped together and insulated. That same aluminum is what thousands of people have been using for many years, see the Frybrid kits, there is no better aluminum. Mine has not leaked in >7 years and it gets abused with big loads on a rough 4wd road every day.

It tough to recommend things you have no experience with, such as pex TiH or a kit. I have heard lots of horror stories with kits, no call backs for support, inferior parts, and seen many leaky pex compression fittings. Most of the kit designs I have seen are bad in many ways, and why I made my own.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
SunWizard
Site Admin
 
Posts: 1719
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:53 pm
Location: N. Colorado

Re: 1997 dodge 2500 conversion

Postby gudgean » Fri Oct 11, 2013 3:32 pm

so here are the pics.
the tank. this one place where i am very afraid of the aluminum line. as i said it is very soft. i had to use thread locker on the fitting to make it seal up . if you mess with this after you have it tight you may cause a coolant leak.
IMG_3166 (640x427).jpg
the tank
IMG_3166 (640x427).jpg (134.94 KiB) Viewed 579 times


next is the filter.
IMG_3165 (640x427).jpg
filter
IMG_3165 (640x427).jpg (147.54 KiB) Viewed 579 times
I need to build a 1/4 " plate around or at least in front of this to protect it. or better yet , move the passenger side battery to under the bed and free up some space in the engine bay.

next engine bay valves on top of cummins plate. front valve is filter next is tank, and back one is recirc.
IMG_3156 (640x427).jpg
engine bay
IMG_3156 (640x427).jpg (170.21 KiB) Viewed 579 times
very cluttered in there. no room for a filter.
Last edited by gudgean on Fri Oct 11, 2013 4:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
gudgean
 
Posts: 18
Joined: Thu Aug 29, 2013 5:40 pm

Re: 1997 dodge 2500 conversion

Postby gudgean » Fri Oct 11, 2013 3:58 pm

here is where i tied into the coolant system
IMG_3157 (640x427).jpg
heat tie in
IMG_3157 (640x427).jpg (172.82 KiB) Viewed 579 times


this is the diesel filter.
IMG_3162 (640x427).jpg
diesel filter
IMG_3162 (640x427).jpg (129.19 KiB) Viewed 579 times
instead of cutting the lines i used fittings from xrp here and at the lift pump. Being that i am a guy who does not realise his own strength at times i under tightened all of the fittings at the lift pump because i have a habit of breaking aluminum castings......and had to redo them. REMOVE THE STARTER AND DO IT FROM UNDERNEATH!!!!

Heat exchanger from duda diesel
IMG_3158 (640x427).jpg
heat exchanger
IMG_3158 (640x427).jpg (165.84 KiB) Viewed 579 times
. IT works well. i guess i could use a bigger one but hind sight and all that plus money is an issue.Note the bleeder. I had one in a drawer and a xrp fitting to make it work and give a nice high bleed point for the systems.
Last edited by gudgean on Fri Oct 11, 2013 4:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
gudgean
 
Posts: 18
Joined: Thu Aug 29, 2013 5:40 pm

Re: 1997 dodge 2500 conversion

Postby gudgean » Fri Oct 11, 2013 4:21 pm

This is where is did the engine bay h.i.h. After chasing these leaks around a bit i decided to not only thread lock this. And since i no longer have a double flare tool i went and over cranked a compression fitting on it, then cut the brass lock nut off the aluminum line leaving only the brass compression collar. Then i slipped on the hose over that and clamped it down. Should never slip off under any pressure.
IMG_3168 (640x427).jpg
IMG_3168 (640x427).jpg (91.69 KiB) Viewed 579 times



Here i had found another aluminum 3 port block in my drawer of tricks and drilled and tapped the back of it so i could place in the valve that sunwizard had suggested so i can install a fuel pressure gauge. This under the air intake where the wvo and diesel meet.
IMG_3159 (640x427).jpg
IMG_3159 (640x427).jpg (137.6 KiB) Viewed 579 times


And lastly this is the 30 amp relay that controls my heated band for the wvo filter
IMG_3161 (640x427).jpg
IMG_3161 (640x427).jpg (182.83 KiB) Viewed 579 times


I will show the Greasecar controller next time kids.

The system takes a little to long to heat up i think but i will end up moving the wvo filter to the engine bay soon and will also wire the wvo filter band heater to come on by toggle switch instead of being controlled by the computer.

Until next time ....relax drink a home brew. Support Your local home brew shop.
gudgean
 
Posts: 18
Joined: Thu Aug 29, 2013 5:40 pm

Re: 1997 dodge 2500 conversion

Postby GreenHandle » Sun Nov 10, 2013 6:30 pm

Subscribed. Thanks for sharing your experience. I'm interested in converting a 98 12v and trying to learn from others. Please keep us posted on your adventures in grease!
2001 Dodge 2500 HO 24v Cummins 6spd ECLB 4x4
1998 Dodge 2500 12v Cummins 5spd ECSB 4x4
1993 Dodge D250 12v Cummins 5spd RCLB 2WD
1991.5 Dodge W250 12v Cummins 5 spd RCLB 4x4
GreenHandle
 
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Nov 10, 2013 3:38 pm
Location: Prescott, AZ

Re: 1997 dodge 2500 conversion

Postby gudgean » Wed Apr 23, 2014 5:59 pm

Well i started here greasecar or frybrid?

Finished here.about1093.html

The other day i was coming home and losing power quick.by the time i got home the engine was slow and losing fuel pressure faster and faster. So bad then that i had to pull over and let the engine catch up, build pressure and then ride along. I almost didnt make it home.

Ya know those warning signs that there is something wrong?Well i didnt listen to them and almost had a catastrophic failure. i waited till the next day and pulled the pre filter and found a ton of chicken skin.

When installing the valves i had 2 of them plumbed backwards and filled my diesel tank with wvo.I drained it and did not have enough money to buy a full tank of diesel.Just a quarter tank. Immediately, my fuel sender is sticking and cant get a correct reading and been doing that a few months, now the tank is throwing chicken skin.

Is there anything i can do about that now?

Now after a couple days and cleaning the prefilter and changing fuel filters it seems to be a little harder starting.

Also what kind of filter are ya'll running? napa is pricey and i find deals online for 2 pack kits and such i just would like to know what the boy's that have experience are running.iI am running the same one as sunwizard here but what else is available?

Can i run auto trans fluid to help burn off deposits on and in the injectors and pump?What kind?Or what else can i use as an additive?Paint thinner?naptha?

Can i now get the best of both worlds and blend?
gudgean
 
Posts: 18
Joined: Thu Aug 29, 2013 5:40 pm

Previous

Return to 2 Tank veggie oil conversion and General discussion

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests

cron