1990 F250 dual stock tank

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1990 F250 dual stock tank

Postby Me_Rock » Wed May 20, 2015 2:16 am

Howdy folks,

I'm brand new to burning veg. I've collected about 25 gallons of oil and it's settling for now... Still running on diesel, there's no need to get hasty here.

My old 7.3 liter farm rig has two tanks stock. Is it recommendable to run vegetable oil in one tank and diesel in the other? This is the stock fuel system, so I'm a little concerned about the fuel return going in to the wrong tank. It's getting quite warm here this time of year, and the Internet seems to say that I might be able to get away with it running filtered oil unheated.

In a few months It'll be harvest time. I'll be driving semi trucks (the 14 liter kind) and making the big bucks, so I'll be able to afford a fully heated kit... I'm thinking about GreaseCar. The major downside to this kit that I see is that it costs the same amount that my whole pickup truck did. Has anyone plumbed the stock dual tanks in the F250 to be a fully heated and separate system? A conversion that utilizes an already existing dual tank setup would make things a lot cheaper, but the reliability of a full heated system is attractive. Especially since winters here can get colder than -10 degrees F... I hear that it's quite difficult to run a pickup on a frozen solid block of grease.

Does anyone have any input on this?

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Joined: Wed May 20, 2015 1:54 am

Re: 1990 F250 dual stock tank

Postby jburke » Wed May 27, 2015 10:15 am

Hi ,
I have been doing what you are considering for 12 years in my '92 dual-tank F-250.
It is all stock except for a 16-plate 3" x 8" FPHE installed between the lift pump and the fuel filter.
I start on the front tank with diesel + biodiesel. The rear tank has wvo + diesel blends. 80% wvo in summer and 30% wvo in winter. Going higher results in fuel starvation and engine surging and the 'Fuel Filter" light coming on in the dash indicating high vacumn before the fuel filter.

It works well for me because I only drive it < 4k miles per year. Cost $200 for the FPHE and fittings.

It heats both tanks being common and this helps prevent IP seizure on switch-over which the Stanadyne is reported to occur several times on infopop. My original was just replaced at 200K miles, well beyond the 100-150K reported average for diesel alone.

It uses a single stock filter, so I keep a spare in the truck but haven't needed to change it on the road yet. The "Fuel Filter" warning light gives adequate warning when to change it.

The fuel senders gummed up from wvo and stopped working within a few months.
So both gauges read empty. I keep fuel in each tank and if I sense the engine stumble, an indicator the current tank is running out of fuel, I immediately switch tanks. If done in 5 - 10 seconds it keeps going. I also installed a ball pump inline with the FPHE, so I can prime the system if it does run out of air. also makes changing the FF easier.

I got vapor lock a couple times I added kerosene to thin the wvo.
So I just use diesel.

It's run well for 11 years and 30K miles. Only problem now is that the original fuel lines are leaking air somewhere and I have to purge it out before starting, esp. when its cold.
I'm in CT and have drive when temps are 15-20*F with 1/3 wvo in the rear tank.

Re: fuel contamination/crossover.
I'm sure this happens but I've I never had a problem caused by it.
Worst common problem is forgetting to switch back to diesel before stopping.
Real hard to start up when it cools.

Re: unheated fuel.
You can probably find people running unheated blends of 50% or higher, but I wouldn't feel comfortable running more than 30%.
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