Valve Choices??

For discussing the modifications needed for diesel vehicles to run with 2 tank veggie oil conversions.

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Valve Choices??

Postby Radrick » Thu Apr 03, 2008 11:52 am

I am in the process of collecting all the components for my system. I am planning on setting up a single valve system with the valve on the return lines and check valves on the supplies similar to vegmeisters. I want to building the system with a warning light that goes off both if the truck is shut off on wvo and when the supply switch is on dino but the three way is on wvo during purge. It would be much easier to construct the system and to incorporate the warning light if I use an electric valve. I would like some feedback on peoples experiences with the different valves and there opinions on there quality and longevity. Thanks
1995 Chevy K1500 6.5 TD not on WVO yet but soon.
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Hydroforce vs. Mcmaster

Postby HoldOnTight » Thu Apr 03, 2008 2:25 pm

I think the Hydroforce valves are solid construction as opposed to the ones on mcmaster, however, the aluminum body acts as a heat sink in the winter and they tend to leak in powerstroke diesel applications where the pressure differential across them could be as much as 80 psi in some configurations.

The mcmaster valves can't handle as much pressure, but the mostly plastic body doesn't soak up as much heat from the oil.

I used the mcmaster solenoids and went to the bullet-proof hydroforce for my 7.3 L powerstroke diesel engine.
Late 99 Ford F-250, Designed and installed at home, 30 kMi on VO. WVO temp at solenoid valve is 185-195+F, winter-summer.
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Postby Radrick » Fri Apr 04, 2008 7:11 am

Thanks holdon. I can't believe I only have one post to this. I guess all 33 of the people that viewed it are want-a-bee's like me and don't have a working system with a three way. :roll:
1995 Chevy K1500 6.5 TD not on WVO yet but soon.
Radrick
 
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Location: Rochester, MN

Postby zoochy » Fri Apr 04, 2008 11:58 am

91 Toyota Hiace 3L engine w/ a 300W ½” heated fuel line, lift pump, additional 10um fuel filter, and a 2nd diesel tank for starting.
>160,000 km on:
88% canola WVO
11% old gasoline
.6% turpentine
.3% acetone
.1% eye of newt
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Postby rkpatt » Mon Apr 21, 2008 4:56 pm

I think that the heat sink effect contributed to the IP failure ( seized head ,snapped shaft ) on my 7.3 Ford Stanadyne IP . I'm even thinking about attaching coolant heat tube to the supply valve .
Last edited by rkpatt on Tue Apr 22, 2008 4:50 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby Jake Palmer » Mon Apr 21, 2008 6:44 pm

I agree that the alumnium hydraforces act as a heat sink... but they sure are great valves.

FWIW, I have a dual readout thermometer that I'd like to hook up to mine to verify.

You can mitigate some of that by "stacking" them, then insulating them.
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Postby Radrick » Tue Apr 22, 2008 10:05 am

rkpatt wrote:I think that the heat sink effect contributed to the IP failure ( seized head ,snapped shaft ) on my 7.3 Ford Stanadyne IP . I'm even thinking about attaching coolant heat tube to the supply valve .


I am planning on only having one valve and it will be on the return lines. So although I have the same IP you do I am hoping this will not be an issue. I have been looking at this valve it appears to be the best choice I just would like some feedback on its longevity and any problems that poeple have experianced. Thanks for the heads up on the cooling affect of it. Has anyone had this partiular valve stick? On trips my truck will be driven by several different drivers and I really want to make it as trouble free as possible.
1995 Chevy K1500 6.5 TD not on WVO yet but soon.
Radrick
 
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 12:10 pm
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