insulation testers wanted

For discussing the modifications needed for diesel vehicles to run with 2 tank veggie oil conversions.

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insulation testers wanted

Postby leftcoastjeff » Sat Apr 19, 2008 10:16 pm

I need 2-3 testers willing to test Neoprene as insulation on heated portions of your rigs.
simple, right?
Not on that other forum!
My business is making varios shapes, not research on temps.
chemical resistance? Don't know, with all the stuff cooked in the WVO, I don't know! gasoline doesent seem to affect it.
Temps? 400F decomposition, 500F flashpoint, the lycra/nylon melts @350F
Neoprene is amazing insulation. Flexible, durible, washable, reuseable.
Interested?
Please post here,no PM's please! I think this might be important in very cold places. Or in tight spaces! :wink:
Check out the normal stuff we make, and imagine.....Otterbaysuits.com
New lives for old wetsuits, and maybe better insulation for all. :o
LCJeff
'87F-250 stock, minus that pesky water seporator/air inlet, bone stock for now.

Thomas Edison says it best, “Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work”.
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Postby 240Volvo » Sun Apr 20, 2008 7:59 am

I would try them on my heated injector lines, and perhaps my fuel filter. Obviously the filter would need to removable. Sounds like a great idea. Could also be used on heater fuel lines, FPHE.

Let me know if you need measurements.
1984 Volvo 240 diesel with a single tank Elsbett conversion: electric fuel filter heater, FPHE, glow plugs, and injectors. Also injector line heaters and block heater, running 20%kero/80%WVO winter blend.
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Postby leftcoastjeff » Sun Apr 20, 2008 11:39 am

That's one.
Pictures will help, discriptive measurements of the filter is a must.
as far as wraps for injector lines and HOH/HIH's, a 1"- 2" wide strip would be easiest to install,or, I can make almost any size tubing, any length.

I just looked at my(87 F250)injector lines, they look a little hard to wrap with anything, I may have to dissassemble the lines :(

There are so many differant filters, all of which need access points to service, so I will do my best to make it convienant for the user.

Neoprene is the king of insulations! yes, i've been making suits and prototypes for a long time. Maybe too long 8)

Old suits/new uses/say NO to the landfill

How about pre-processes, heat and settle, heat and C-fuge users, this may save $$$ on your heat bills, and time to proper temps.

LCjeff
'87F-250 stock, minus that pesky water seporator/air inlet, bone stock for now.

Thomas Edison says it best, “Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work”.
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Postby Cumminscanuck » Sun Apr 20, 2008 3:17 pm

I too would try it on my filter like a "bootee" and on the fuel lines. I was trying to come up with a way of insulating my valves also. There are pictures at http://good-times.webshots.com/album/56 ... good-times showing the valve plate and layout.
2000 24 VALVE Quad Cab 2500 SLT. Edge Comp. 275 RV's. PDR HX 35/14 hybrid turbo. 4" Diamond Flow Exhaust. Isspro Pyro, Boost, Trans. Temp. Fuel Pressure, Gauges. Turbo Master. Silicone Boot Kit. FASS. BHAF. Running on SVO.
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Postby leftcoastjeff » Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:05 pm

Funny, I was just looking at your pics, saying to myself "I wonder how much heat loss through all that aluminum, sure looks handsom, great job!8)
Next If you have Dimentions. or you can direct me to " where to find" we can get started sooner than later.
As with all new projects, "your milage may vary"
My first thought on the valves, something like a shower cap?
How hot does the electric tube heater get on the outside?
Rubber hoses? connecting tubing and the rest should be around 190F max?
Will look again at your pics
OBTW think also about color coding with covers or all black lycra/nylon 8)
Neoprene comes in too many colors. We carry several colors, sometimes we have shortages.

I hope that i am contributing positivly, and maybe soon there will be a market for all those second-hand throw-aways YOU can find for next to nothing (DIY is what floats my boat)

LCjeff
'87F-250 stock, minus that pesky water seporator/air inlet, bone stock for now.

Thomas Edison says it best, “Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work”.
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Postby flysurge » Mon Apr 21, 2008 5:13 am

Can you make a tube to cover two 3/4 in hosede about 12 feet long??

How aout a sleeve that will go around a 55 gal drum that has heater cord wrapped around it.
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Postby leftcoastjeff » Mon Apr 21, 2008 9:13 am

The short answer is yes and yes
Please measure the temps on the outside of the heater on the drum, these will be higher than the oil temps inside.
Please measure the circumfrance of both hoses with a little extra to ease installation.
Circumfrance and length measurments, post-em and i'll get started.

Decomposition @400F
flashpoint @500F
These temps are for our standard foam, fire resistant is made but we don't stock any.
The lycra/nylon laminate melts around 350F

please test carefully and post your results
AKA "Without cover/with cover to heat, if your using glass fiber or bubble wrap perhaps a comparison of times to raise temps a specific number of degrees. OBTW I'm not running UCO yet, need to read a little more and formulate some really good questions, got the diner to seperate out the grill grease from the frier oil, got my '87 F250' just need all the rest and after paying taxes that may be a while.
LCjeff
'87F-250 stock, minus that pesky water seporator/air inlet, bone stock for now.

Thomas Edison says it best, “Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work”.
leftcoastjeff
 
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Postby Radrick » Mon Apr 21, 2008 3:43 pm

I am just getting started setting up my system and I would be very interested in doing some testing. I am planning on having it up and running by June. I will have a FPHE, fuel filter, 15' of 3/4" heater hose, short sections of 3/8" copper/aluminum tubing and multiple ball valves. Do you know what the R or U value is? How much is the R/U value affected by air movement? As in 70 mph -20f air with 190 deg temp 3/4" hose inside of it.
1995 Chevy K1500 6.5 TD not on WVO yet but soon.
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Postby leftcoastjeff » Mon Apr 21, 2008 4:22 pm

Neoprene is "closed cell" when it's new, we've been making drysuits for 20 some-odd-years and some are that old.
Air will not pass through.
As far as "r" factor, I tried to research several years ago, like apples/oranges
Hands on research:
Brewery boil kettle, outside skin doesent contact wort, glows red at night,
used a piece of 1/8"to insulate my hand, amazingly I didn't get burned, didn't even feel hot, and yes smoke started and I stoped.
"amazing stuff"

LCjeff
'87F-250 stock, minus that pesky water seporator/air inlet, bone stock for now.

Thomas Edison says it best, “Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work”.
leftcoastjeff
 
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Postby Jake Palmer » Mon Apr 21, 2008 7:52 pm

I would really like to try some on the HoH 3/8 line that passes over my rad. There is a ton of airflow there and I am losing heat, even with 2 layers of bubblewrap insulation. I was going to re-rout to behind the engine, but if neoprene could keep the heat in I would love to test it.
Image

How would you do something like this? A "neoprene "tube" that I'd pull over the lines, or as a long strip that I'd wrap & tape? what dimensions would you need?

I have a couple dual readout remote thermometers. I could test compared to as it is now, as it is with NO insulation and as it is with neoprene.

You should really look at doing neoprene covers for FPHEs. They would sell like hotcakes. That and HoH covers.
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Postby Jake Palmer » Mon Apr 21, 2008 8:00 pm

woa just checked out your website... neoprene mermaid suits!?! Where have you been all my life. hoo boy
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Postby leftcoastjeff » Mon Apr 21, 2008 8:43 pm

Glad you enjoyed the mermaids, I don't get to measure them :shock:
What I need is a circumfrance of both hoses, I don't think the tywraps will slide through easily, tywrap after?
OR
I can cut strips to wrap with, not quite as good in theory, no real world/ hold-in-your-hand evidance.
And the length, I'll make it a little longer, SOP on either type, trimming may be required :(
No heated filter? No FPHE or injector heaters? You must be in a warm climate like me, well kinda. 8)

LCjeff
'87F-250 stock, minus that pesky water seporator/air inlet, bone stock for now.

Thomas Edison says it best, “Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work”.
leftcoastjeff
 
Posts: 196
Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2008 6:35 pm
Location: Monterey, cal.

Postby Jake Palmer » Mon Apr 21, 2008 8:55 pm

I have a FPHE, heated filter... heck I'd even like toinsulate my switching valves... I just didn't want to get greedy!

I'll get you some measurements tomorrow!
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Postby leftcoastjeff » Mon Apr 21, 2008 9:52 pm

you are #5, where shall I stop this "only the shadow knows"
the switching valves I've seen look like big heat-sinks.
Greedy? no, anyone testing for me gets all I can give, all I want is public info.
Personally I stoped buying diesel when it hit $4.15 a gal for stuff with extra water that has given me fits. :x
This thread is getting exciting.
'87F-250 stock, minus that pesky water seporator/air inlet, bone stock for now.

Thomas Edison says it best, “Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work”.
leftcoastjeff
 
Posts: 196
Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2008 6:35 pm
Location: Monterey, cal.

Postby zoochy » Mon Apr 21, 2008 10:33 pm

A removable cover for hydraforce 3-way valves would be great.
One like this:
http://www.plantdrive.com/shop/product. ... 248&page=2
1988 Dodge Ram in progress.
1997 Dodge Ram- 2 tank; Arctic Fox pickup; TIH; Plantdrive VM2 filter; Hydroforce valves
PREVIOUS 91 Toyota Hiace 3L engine >200,000 km on: 88% canola WVO; 11% old gasoline; 0.6% turpentine; 0.3% acetone; 0.1% eye of newt
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