VO and WVO quality

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VO and WVO quality

Postby zoochy » Fri May 02, 2008 12:45 pm

I have an opportunity to get my hands on very high quality WVO from a fancy restaurant that changes their oil 3-4 times a week! The oil they start out with is almost 2x the price of cheaper oil as apparently it’s a higher quality Canola.

My present restaurant changes their oil once a week and the WVO is quite “burnt” (brown). I have had good luck running my van on this “burnt oil” but I have to let it settle for months. The dilemma is that I will have to buy the lightly used oil for a buck a gallon. I may be able to negotiate this price a bit though.

1. What is the difference between high and low grade canola VO? Is this restaurant manager a fool for buying more expensive oil?

2. Does lightly used WVO make for better fuel than heavily used WVO? This assumes that both fuels are properly filtered and dewatered.

3. How much would you pay for WVO?
1988 Dodge Ram in progress.
1997 Dodge Ram- 2 tank; Arctic Fox pickup; TIH; Plantdrive VM2 filter; Hydroforce valves
PREVIOUS 91 Toyota Hiace 3L engine >200,000 km on: 88% canola WVO; 11% old gasoline; 0.6% turpentine; 0.3% acetone; 0.1% eye of newt
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Re: VO and WVO quality

Postby SunWizard » Fri May 02, 2008 1:01 pm

zoochy wrote:1. What is the difference between high and low grade canola VO? Is this restaurant manager a fool for buying more expensive oil?

High oleic VO is better for health reasons, and better as fuel since it is less likely to polymerize. It lasts 2x as long in the fryer before it affects taste, so for high priced foods only the cooks know what they want.
2. Does lightly used WVO make for better fuel then heavily used WVO? This assumes that both fuels are properly filtered and dewatered.

This is an area that needs research done, I have seen none. Its less likely to poly, so slightly better, it may create less deposits in fuel system or engine. It may cause less trouble with lube oil poly. Its also easier to filter/dewater since there are less mono and di-glycerides which are strong emulsifiers that hold onto water.
3. How much would you pay for WVO?

Nothing since I have a good supply. If I lost all my places, and could find no more, it depends on the amount and quality and ease of collection. $1/gallon beats buying D2, but only if its easy to collect/filter/dewater.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
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Re: VO and WVO quality

Postby BMW Fan » Fri May 02, 2008 2:17 pm

zoochy wrote:
1. What is the difference between high and low grade canola VO? Is this restaurant manager a fool for buying more expensive oil?

2. Does lightly used WVO make for better fuel than heavily used WVO? This assumes that both fuels are properly filtered and dewatered.

I did rejuvenate oil for restaurant owners for some years..
The secret is a filtering technique in combination with a " secret " powder.
The result can be quite amazing.
I still have the equipment and I'll show it at my " GET TOGETHER ON VEGGIE " ...all stainless steel, food prove as regulated by the government.
Restaurants usually have 3 fryers.

- The first one is for French fries.
-Second for meat, chicken etc.
-Third for fish.

If the oil isn't good for the French fries the oil goes into the meat fryer.
If it isn't good for meat it goes into the fish fryer.
Only then it get's dumped
Let's be clear I did not invent that. That's how the restaurant owners dictate the business.

Now, the high grade canola oil outlasts the cheaper oils by far and they are perfect for our purpose.
High grade is less prune to flavor, too.
If your French fries you get served are not of a golden brown color....run as fast as you can.
The "healthy" cooking temperature for canola oil is app. 150 degree Celsius.
Most cooks overheat the oil and set the temperature up to 200 degree.
The result is clear....carbon = black color.
If you see that...don't eat there. The color has very less, IMHO no effect for fuel use.
I can not show scientific results, just my long experience.


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Postby David » Fri May 02, 2008 7:38 pm

To me, cooking oils are a lot like motor oils.
As long as they are up to standard, you are better off changing the cheaper one regularly and keeping it relatively clean than using a more expensive one longer and letting it get more Dirty. I don't think engines have much preference for canola, cottonseed, sesame or whatever. I do think they have a preference for clean oil however. :D

I have played with some rather dirty and shagged looking oil and after settling, de watering and filtering, the stuff has come up really nice. I think it is the final standard you get the oil to that counts, not what you start off with. I was getting some oil that was changed every 2 days but was blac as sump oil and full of tiny little particles that would fall straight through a 1UM filter but still quickly gather in my on board filters and block them. Fresh oil didn't count for much here but if I had a Centrifuge, I think this oil may have cleaned up really nice. I still have some of this stuff put away and when I do get a CF< I'll give it a go and if it does work out, I may start going back and collecting from that place again.

Some people wash their oil and this may be a good thing to do in order to clean up crappy oil if thats all you can get. Some people even glycerin wash their WVO for straight use as well as bio making. I had some oil that appeared to be fermenting but once processed, it was a nice light color and appeared to have a thin viscosity and no fats.

I think what Sun says about poly makes sense but the bottom line is if you don't have or get a problem with poly, then it just isn't a problem.

As for paying for WVO, I think that is a highly subjective question of which the answer only has any meaning or significance to an individual person.
If You ask me how much I would pay for WVO at home, the answer is nothing at all. I have a years supply here already...maybe more. If you ask me that when I travel interstate next month, the answer may well be $1 per L for ready to go oil because that would still be saving me around .70C a Litre on buying Diesel. If I do find some oil and it seems good enough for a couple of tankfuls with just a filtering, Chances are I'll be back to the $0/ L offer again.

I sell my oil to people who can get oil of their own but don't have time to collect or process it , the inclination, or in some cases, the space to process it. For them, buying their regular supply off me is better than doing it themselves even though they could have a source of oil for free. Many people here travel to buy bio which ends up costing them much more than Dino but the pay the extra because of what they see as the environmental benefits. Horses for courses.

You may find that you are better off buying good oil For $1 than mucking round processing lesser quality oil that takes more of your time or you may be happy to process a lesser quality oil for the enjoyment of that. Only you know what best suits your needs and situation. :D

I don't give a damn about what might or could happen until a significant group of people can tell me it HAS happened to them.
Until then, it's just more endless gloom and doom Veg folk law.
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