Coolant Heated Spin-on SVO Filter.

For discussing the modifications needed for diesel vehicles to run with 2 tank veggie oil conversions.

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Postby Welder » Tue Jun 10, 2008 5:17 am

You are confirming what I've heard with others that hose wrapped veggie filters are a big PITA. I'm sure someone will argue otherwise, but I'm trying to develop something easier and about equally as efficient.

I'm glad the electric heater pad helped you. I'm trying to avoid using electricity for a few reasons:

1. Coolant has a higher available BTU capacity.

2. Coolant CAN'T short out.

3. Coolant doesn't draw any amperage.


I'm betting that a NHTSA or CMVSS inspector would be more likely to accept coolant heated filters because of the "can't short out" factor, although an off-the-shelf automotive heater wrap might be accepted...
"Is there anybody out there?"

Roger Waters
Welder
 
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Postby WD8CDH » Tue Jun 10, 2008 5:51 am

hheynow wrote:
Wind chill only affects humans. :mrgreen: Originally I insulated the filter on my Vormax but insulation does not produce heat and heat rises. :roll: Then I used Dana's heated coil design with my coolant loop. Then I realized what a PITA it is to remove when I need to change filters. Then I installed a 12v 70watt pad heater with a relay and illuminated dash switch. Problem solved!


Wind chill FACTOR relates to humans but wind chill affects anything warmer than than the actual temperature by drawing off more heat so insulation does help, sometimes a lot.
Ron Schroeder
WD8CDH
'85 MB 300DT 2 Tank
Since '81 former WVO conversions:
'83 240D
'80 Audi 4000D
'83 Isuzu Pup
'86 Golf
'76 Honda Civic with Kubota engine
Prior to the cars, several generators
Kubota Tractor
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Windchill - dispelling this myth that it only affects humans

Postby HoldOnTight » Tue Jun 10, 2008 7:22 am

hheynow wrote:
Welder wrote:
Since your veggie filter is mounted under your truck, do you find it necessary to insulate the filter against wind chill?


Wind chill only affects humans. :mrgreen: Originally I insulated the filter on my Vormax but insulation does not produce heat and heat rises. :roll: Then I used Dana's heated coil design with my coolant loop. Then I realized what a PITA it is to remove when I need to change filters. Then I installed a 12v 70watt pad heater with a relay and illuminated dash switch. Problem solved!


To dispell this myth:
Wind chill can be both an evaporation process as well as a conduction process. Your skin isn't telling you a lie! ;) Any temperature difference between air and a surface will exchange heat at a faster rate with the movement of the air.
Late 99 Ford F-250, Designed and installed at home, 30 kMi on VO. WVO temp at solenoid valve is 185-195+F, winter-summer.
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Postby Welder » Thu Jun 12, 2008 5:01 pm

I think Hheynow knew it that wind chill is real, that's why he added the little smiley face after saying that it only affects humans.

Personally, I think that insulating all heate veggie components should increase their effectiveness somewhat. In warmer climates the effect may be negligable, but in colder climates it would likely help the veggie lines and filters stay hot.
"Is there anybody out there?"

Roger Waters
Welder
 
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Location: B.C. Canada

Postby Welder » Fri Jun 20, 2008 2:47 am

Hi people.

Here's a little update on the filter project:

I did some poking around and found a vendor who sells the proper filters I want.

They are top quality and have microglass membranes that come in 2 and 10 microns.

They are a little cheaper than the price I quoted before.

The 10 micron elements are about $18.00 for one and the price can drop down to about $14.50 each in large quantities.

The 2 micron elements are about $20.00 for one and the price can drop down to about $16.00 each in large quantities.

I like the protection given by the 2 micron elements, but I think the 10 micron ones might be more practical because as the pores fill with contaminants, the larger 10 micron pore size will slowly decrease.
"Is there anybody out there?"

Roger Waters
Welder
 
Posts: 189
Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2008 4:06 am
Location: B.C. Canada

Postby jburke » Tue Jun 24, 2008 8:37 am

"There's a world of difference between a heated steel fuel tank with veggie sloshing around with an air pocket above it versus hot oil being sucked through a hot steel filter head that has no air in it."

Given that the fuel continuously circulates from the tank, through the pumps and injectors, and back to the tank, isn't it all really one big tank?
At least while the engine is running.

The fuel would not be simultaneously exposed to steel and air, but would
that be sufficient to prevent polymerization?

There would be no VO in contact with the steel fuel filter on shutdown in a dual tank system.
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