One tank on a W123 300D NA engine

Single Tank WVO systems and blending SVO WVO to thin it.

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Postby td2dv » Thu Jun 12, 2008 4:56 pm

Zulu wrote:The pump I have is a HUCO 1,4PSI HUCO Webpage I don't use the Mercedes pump because when I change the filter, it is easier than pumping my butt off to get the filter full, ie priming the system.

Installing goes quicker if one fills the filter with fuel before screwing it on. There is still some pumping to purge the remaining air out. Nothing compared to trying to fill a dry filter.

78 240-D, WVO/10%RUG
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Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2008 4:47 pm

Postby td2dv » Sat Jul 26, 2008 10:49 pm

If one's fuel filter clogs they might first heat the filter up with a garden type sprinkling can filled with really hot water. No matter how clear the oil looks there can be wax in it that the filter catches.
Benz 240-D
WVO/RUG (10%) 5 mo/yr
Posts: 38
Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2008 4:47 pm

Postby VegMeister » Sun Jul 27, 2008 7:06 pm

Let me chip in here, only one thing I can help with:
Zulu wrote: With regard to the water, most of the restaurants here let the oil cool and then toss them back in to the 20L plastic drums they came in, so if the oil was at 200Degrees C, then there can not be any water inthem, or am I misunderstanding the process all the time.

That's not entirely true. I know with my truck, I would not trust that water to be adequately de-watered at all. I don't know why (something about the boundary ... entrapment? of a certain depth of oil....) and I haven't seen an adequate scientific explanation for why this is true, but I do know for a fact that such oil can and will contain significant amounts of suspended water. And others have observed this to be the case. BTW sounds like a blast you're having in Africa.
centralvalleybiodiesel CF
1993 GMC Sierra K2500 6.5L + homebuilt veg kit, OEM glowplug failure (update: rebuilt with a 6.2 block, working fine)
1988 Ford 6.9L OEM dual tank, 90+% veg oil blend.
1989 Ford 7.3L, 80+% veg oil blend.
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Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2008 11:12 am
Location: Pembine, WI

Maximum pressure drop across a Pentek Big Blue style pleated

Postby mixer » Sun Aug 24, 2008 4:51 pm

Hello blenders, I noticed that there was an unresolved question as to how much of a pressure drop across a Pentek Big Blue style pleated cellulose filter membrane, before blow-by begins. I found by trial and error, and from communication with Pentek’s tech support, that 20 PSI is the maximum safe pressure drop across their filter membrane, before blow-by begins.

With this pressure limitation in mind, I use a pressure tank and compressed air to push my WVO through a manifold of 5 Big Blue filters, at precisely controlled pressure using an air regulator. The filters with pleated cellulose sediment cartridges in them are arranged in series 50, 30, 20, 10 and 5 microns.

I have pressure gauges on the top of each Big Blue filter housing, so that I can monitor the pressure across all of the filters. I then set the air pressure so that the filter with the largest pressure drop does not exceed 20-PSI.

There is typically a 5-PSI drop across each filter until they load up with sediments. So, I typically begin with 25-PSI at the pressure tank, and slowly increase the entry pressure as the filters load up with sediments until I reach the 20-PSI terminal pressure drop across a single filter. You can see an early photo of my setup at this URL: ... oject.html

Pentek® Replacement Water Filters ... nQodQRE7kg
Advocating blending 5-30% gasoline with WVO in the tank from the pump is far less dangerous than blending a few ounces of two-stroke oil into a can of gasoline for a lawnmower.
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Location: Tucson, AZ USA

And when it drop, oh oh when it drop oh pressure, pressure!

Postby mixelpix » Thu Dec 18, 2008 1:50 pm

mixer wrote:I noticed that there was an unresolved question as to how much of a pressure drop before blow-by begins

Hmm, hadn't noticed that.

But I do notice a lot of "blow-by" gasses from older Benz's especially when the owner avoids setting the manual valve lashes every 12.5km.

For all the members here who drive them, an easy way to evaluate the blow-by on any Mercedes-Benz 61x series engine is this:

1) warm the engine to normal operating temperatures (80C/175F)

2) park the car with the engine running

3) open and secure the hood

4) unscrew the oil filler cap on the valve cover and set it on the hole.

Likely it will dance around while some smoke and oil sputters out.

If the "blow-by" gasses from the pistons and/or valves are pressurized enough and blow the oil cap off the valve cover, you might have a problem. . .

5) put the cap back on. Likely you wouldn't be surprised by how many people forget this critical second to last step before they,

6) go home.

-Patrick Kennedy

p.s. Just be thankful that I am not adding this as my sig line ;^)

In 1978 my Mercedes-Benz manual was printed with the recommended of adding up to a maximum 30% gasoline in emergency and emergency Winter situations only. Both diesel fuels and gasoline fuels blends were very different in 1978 than they are today in 2008 or will be in the very foreseeable future. Mercedes-Benz has since updated and maintained their owners manuals and reference literature to reflect the current face of automotive fluids and other appropriate consumeables. In their US$50 billion annual R&D budgeting wisdom, they have "converted" their recommendations for emergency fuel options to reflect the "converted" ASTM options for passenger and ULSD fueling. Please do not consider either the old or updated recommendations for emergency fueling situations as advice the manufacturer would recommend for commuting, regular or daily fueling situations, whether your ride is stock, modified or "converted" Don't take my word for it. Visit your local dealer or call today and register your vehicle identification number with 1800 FOR MERC. They will email you a .pdf or send you the literature so you don't ever need to call and ask for their free roadside assistance program (M-B USA).
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