Please advise

For discussing the modifications needed for diesel vehicles to run with 2 tank veggie oil conversions.

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Please advise

Postby leftcoastjeff » Tue Jun 10, 2008 11:26 pm

I had a customer offer to lend me the $$$ for my conversion!

This is a low budget conversion on a low budget truck.
Weekly driver now......Dump runs etc.
The temps rarely go below freezing (once in 5 years) and the UVO is all canola/peanut.

I put samples in the freezer for a couple of days, no gel!
Hot pan test, OK straight out of the quebie. (with some chunks)

next, what I have;

F250 stock. needing return rebuild from injectors. (they are stock and 20 years old)
Otherwise it seems to run great, other than needing glow plugs. extra time starting cold/30 sec.
Planning on removing stock tank and cleaning/new pick-up/ sensor.

So,

Move 6 port to the engine bay....I can handle that, I think.
The fuel lines are plastic, any advice?
I would replace all, to install HOH/Insulation.

Plantdrive has great looking gear, but being on a hamburger budget, the bling is not necessary considering my statis. I really like the valves/filters

FPHE, Omar's got a 30 plate, $159.00, although it is copper brazed, is this a big deal(poly?) with no o2 present.

I still need 2 finishing filters (1 micron??) before tank/inline after FPHE?

Stock lift pump?

I would buy used, but..........................

Have I missed something important?

Should I attempt using the stock filter?

This will be a documented conversion avalable to all in the proper thread.

Enough for now....

Sleep time, :shock:
LCjeff

P.S. I've been in the barter mood as of late, any takers? 8)
'87F-250 stock, minus that pesky water seporator/air inlet, bone stock for now.

Thomas Edison says it best, “Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work”.
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Postby coachgeo » Tue Jun 10, 2008 11:44 pm

suggest you do a search of the internet. This conversion is fairly common. Could really help you to see/read where they have ran the lines etc.
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Postby hheynow » Wed Jun 11, 2008 10:38 am

coachgeo wrote:suggest you do a search of the internet.


George's standard response. :roll:

I have a copper brazed 30 plate HE for sale.
Brand new in opened box.
Ordered it when I thought mine was leaking from the flat plates. :roll:
Leak was at a threaded hose barb. :roll:
$150 including shipping
FOR SALE: 1997 Ford F-350 7.3L PSD - Plant Drive kit
1984 Mercedes Euro 300D NA - Custom two tank
Running on used plant oil and biodiesel since May 2006
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Postby coachgeo » Wed Jun 11, 2008 11:24 am

hheynow wrote:
coachgeo wrote:suggest you do a search of the internet.


George's standard response. :roll: ...
LOL :lol: Can't say I'm not consistant :D

Seriously though. Armed with info found in searches people can ask much more detailed questions allowing them to get rolling with their project much faster and complete it much more smoothly.
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30 plate

Postby leftcoastjeff » Fri Jun 13, 2008 6:02 pm

I want it!

hheynow said,
"I have a copper brazed 30 plate HE for sale.
Brand new in opened box.
Ordered it when I thought mine was leaking from the flat plates.
Leak was at a threaded hose barb.
$150 including shipping"

Does it include fittings?
Which brand is that 30 plate?
I'm trying to get some money into Paypal.
Would you consider barter?

coachgeo wrote:
"suggest you do a search of the internet." :shock:

Standard response are standard not necessarily helpful, could you be more specific in your direction? Or perhaps answer one of my specific questions.

Move 6 port to the engine bay.?

copper brazed, is this a big deal(poly?) with no o2 present.

Stock lift pump?

Should I attempt using the stock filter? (for Dino?)

Have I missed something important?

OBTW I've searched several places on the net, none have what I'm looking for. Thanx!

LCjeff
'87F-250 stock, minus that pesky water seporator/air inlet, bone stock for now.

Thomas Edison says it best, “Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work”.
leftcoastjeff
 
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Location: Monterey, cal.

Re: 30 plate

Postby coachgeo » Fri Jun 13, 2008 7:36 pm

leftcoastjeff wrote:...
coachgeo wrote:
"suggest you do a search of the internet." :shock:

Standard response are standard not necessarily helpful, could you be more specific in your direction? Or perhaps answer one of my specific questions.

Move 6 port to the engine bay.?
Seems to be most every diagram and discussion I just found searching says to put anything like the valve wherever it will create the shortest purge time. Guess one could conclude that this tends to mean it will end up best in the engine bay.

copper brazed, is this a big deal(poly?) with no o2 present.
quick search of infopop seems to not be coming up with anything to show that this is a concern

Stock lift pump?
search seems to show about 50/50 on using it for diesel. Folk seem to not be using it for WVO

OBTW I've searched several places on the net, none have what I'm looking for. Thanx!
thanx for searching.

Takes a some practice to get the nack of what terms to search by etc. and reading numerous things to "determine" your own answers. Rarely do you find the exact answers written out like its in a text book.

Once you've come up with some conclusions on your own.... that's a great time to follow up with some questions to see if others find your conclusions sound... if not... why not etc etc. some great discussions come about that way.
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Postby leftcoastjeff » Tue Jun 24, 2008 6:33 pm

Thank you for your input, not at all expected from your first post.

On infopoop, that forem makes me crazy(er).

Maybe someone can compile data on specific vehicles,
What do you know, you guys have done it here!
Thank you, I will make posts there on any progress on my old beast.

LCjeff
'87F-250 stock, minus that pesky water seporator/air inlet, bone stock for now.

Thomas Edison says it best, “Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work”.
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Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2008 6:35 pm
Location: Monterey, cal.

Postby 240Volvo » Tue Jun 24, 2008 8:59 pm

Jeff, if you search infopop for that vehicle, you will get a ton of info. It takes time, but it''s worth it.

Check out BMWfan's FPHE and heated (electric and coolant) filter. If I were doing a conversion now, that is what I would use.
1984 Volvo 240 diesel with a single tank Elsbett conversion: electric fuel filter heater, FPHE, glow plugs, and injectors. Also injector line heaters and block heater, running 20%kero/80%WVO winter blend.
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Postby leftcoastjeff » Tue Jun 24, 2008 10:45 pm

Thank you , I will hold my nose and dive in.

BMW's stuff looks great, Your input is apprieciated, I'll look at it again,
The coolant heated filter looks kinda small as does the FPHE,(for my beast)
I see no need for electric heat as I'm planning 2 tank system

FPHE 20 plate = $ 85.00
Copper brazed
Adaptor Set = $ 14.00
Swiffel adaptors,
includes 3/8 barb 90 degree elbow for fuel and 5/8 barb for water
Insulation box = $ 12.50

Water Heated Filter,
including hand primer pump
and Baldwin Filter BF 587 $ 139.00


Sounds like a great deal if all I need is one of each. If I need more heat maybe a longer HOH system to preheat?

OBTW some bird said that the FPHE shouldn't need insulation, is the cover for protection/ insulation and how well does it work?

HeyHeyHeyNow I still want that 30 plate, come-on?

LCjeff
'87F-250 stock, minus that pesky water seporator/air inlet, bone stock for now.

Thomas Edison says it best, “Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work”.
leftcoastjeff
 
Posts: 196
Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2008 6:35 pm
Location: Monterey, cal.

Postby 240Volvo » Wed Jun 25, 2008 8:35 am

If you do a little searching for FPHE and BTU on this forum, you will see a post from Sunwizard giving btus produced by different sized FPHEs. I don't think you need one that large. I think it is in a thread comparing electric and coolant heat.

Yes, you need insulation on it. In cold (or warm) weather, the HE is designed to exchange heat. air circulation (like when you are driving) will drop the temperature a lot.

The electric heat (especially thermostatically controlled) will melt any animal fat or PHOs in your filter more quickly, allowing for it to be burned better on switch over. It doesn't add much to the cost, and it will work better. I especially like the built in primer. Makes changing filters (and installation- no extra work to mount a primer in line) much easier.
1984 Volvo 240 diesel with a single tank Elsbett conversion: electric fuel filter heater, FPHE, glow plugs, and injectors. Also injector line heaters and block heater, running 20%kero/80%WVO winter blend.
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Postby jburke » Wed Jun 25, 2008 11:04 am

Re: stock lift pump
"Folk seem to not be using it for WVO "

I'm one who does. I use the stock lift pump and filter in my stock dual tank F-250. Works ok in the summer on 100% VO. But in the winter I did break it going up a 1 mile 10% grade with an 80/20 WVO /diesel blend. Course it did have 180,000 miles on it.

I also have used a copper brazed FPHE for 3 years w/o leaks.
The exposure is only along the edge, edge of paper essentially.
Nickel brazed are 2 or 3x as expensive.

There's more copper in the typical brass fittings used than in the FPHE.
BMW Fan has very nice steel or stainless steel swivel fittings for FPHE's.


"I see no need for electric heat as I'm planning 2 tank system "

You obviously missed the infopop warnings about seized Stanadyne f.i.p.'s. But being in CA, you'll probabbly be allright not heating the diesel.

Re: insulation
I don't insulate mine and have no problem maintaing 180*F all year. Usually 195*F. But I don't heat the tank or hoses either.
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Postby Performance Plus WVO » Wed Jun 25, 2008 5:26 pm

You may want to look up JeffNlisa's posts on frybrids forum they are informative and I have seen diagrams of hose routing. The stock lift pump on my 91 f-250 is used primarily for diesel. Jeffnlisa are a big proponent for applying wvo to the stock lift pump. Either way will work .You need to remember to keep the design simple and to include short purge times and max heat. If you get stuck with your design let me know and I will help you make it right. The fphe are not nessecarily the best but are readilly available. If you can locate a marine heat exchanger for a hydraulic transmission about 300 hp worth you will be happier. I believe in the long run they hold up better . The system that you make will all boil down to preference . Just as everyone has a different idea on collecting and filtering the same idea runs in system design. My kits run to -15 and still have a pre ip temp of 175 and some have a range of 2500 miles with a 30 second purge. You need to outline your demands on the paticular vehicle. That being said we can direct you from experience but you need too know what you need.
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Postby leftcoastjeff » Wed Jun 25, 2008 7:39 pm

"You may want to look up JeffNlisa's posts on frybrids forum they are informative and I have seen diagrams of hose routing."

Could you be a little more specific, I searched, found some stuff, but no diagrams.

LCjeff
'87F-250 stock, minus that pesky water seporator/air inlet, bone stock for now.

Thomas Edison says it best, “Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work”.
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Location: Monterey, cal.

Postby Performance Plus WVO » Wed Jun 25, 2008 9:25 pm

Ok here is the title of the post on page 7 of "Nuts and Bolts" Rough Diagram of fuel flow in an IDI Ford, thru '94. This is not the only way to go but rather a starting point to build your ideas.
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Postby leftcoastjeff » Wed Jun 25, 2008 10:41 pm

Thanks very much, that's a place to start

As I dont run into animal fats, ever, never solid freeze here, coolant heat and no heated tank sounds like a winner in my application.

Again thanks,

LCjeff
'87F-250 stock, minus that pesky water seporator/air inlet, bone stock for now.

Thomas Edison says it best, “Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work”.
leftcoastjeff
 
Posts: 196
Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2008 6:35 pm
Location: Monterey, cal.


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