State of the art (or a system update)

Collecting, filtering and dewatering of WVO SVO vegetable oil. For Biodiesel producers too.

Moderators: SunWizard, coachgeo

State of the art (or a system update)

Postby td2dv » Sun Jul 13, 2008 10:47 am

Moderator removed the oversized sizing

Note: I'm not shouting, I just find the larger type easier to read.
As I work my way up the waiting list for a DieselCraft CF to ship. . . .
I am collecting oil from a variety of restaurants in 5-10 gallon lots and often having very interesting conversations in the process. At home I pour the oil into a translucent Kitty-Litter pail to settle for a day or two. I use 1/4" clear plastic tubing to siphon off the clear stuff on top. I am using a wheel balancing weight on the end of the hose and have looped the hose so the intake faces up. The clear stuff is siphoned into a 5 gal plastic water cooler jug. I use a yardstick to determine the quantity of oil and mix in 10% RUG. I have a square kitty-litter bucket (flat sides) with a 'through hull fitting' (from a boating supply shop) placed near the bottom. I bought 5 pair of Levi's from Salvation Army for a buck a pair, cut and sewed the pants legs into 1 foot deep sock filters (25¢@) and hold the open end open with an embroidery hoop. I've cut a hole in the lid of the second pail, just smaller than the embroidery hoop to support the filter. I give the water-cooler jug a swirl and up-end it into the filter as one would filling a water-cooler. As the filter fills up the jug glugs until it's air is cut off and it becomes self tending like a water-cooler. The filtered WVO/RUG mix then drains into a 30 gallon fuel bowser on wheels (intended for dock-side boat refueling). Every week or two I use the bowser's hand pump to fill my 240-D. I read somewhere that the test of the appropriate mix recipe is 'will it start cold' and mine does in Minneapolis in July. More will be revealed.
While chatting to a salesman at Spinner II he told me of a trick a now retired salesman used years ago to compare viscosities. He filled several stoppered test tubes with fluids to be compared and when up-ended demonstrated the different times it took for the trapped air bubble to move up. I tried the method with D2, WVO+10%RUG and WVO.
Here is the test at 72ºf:
http://www.youtube.com/v/g4hgvSe3c2I
And again at 32ºf
http://www.youtube.com/v/RiGdk2VSglk
At -10ºf both WVO's were solid but the D2 still flowed fine.
While I was waiting for the videos to upload I happened upon this statement regarding oil fires:
Fire extinguishers
Fires involving cooking fats and oils (classified as Class K) burn hotter than other typical combustible liquids, rendering a standard class B extinguisher ineffective. Such fires should be extinguished with a wet chemical extinguisher. Extinguishers of this type are designed to extinguish cooking fats and oils through saponification. The extinguishing agent rapidly converts the burning substance to a non-combustible soap. This process is endothermic, meaning it absorbs energy (in this case, thermal energy) from its surroundings, decreasing the temperature and eliminating the fire.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saponification
Benz 240-D
Minneapolis
WVO/RUG (10%) 5 mo/yr
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Re: State of the art (or a system update)

Postby SunWizard » Sun Jul 13, 2008 11:56 am

td2dv wrote:I read somewhere that the test of the appropriate mix recipe is 'will it start cold' and mine does in Minneapolis in July.

I think that is very wrong. Most important is does it start with <2 seconds of smoking?
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
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Postby John Galt » Sun Jul 13, 2008 12:28 pm

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Last edited by John Galt on Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby coachgeo » Sun Jul 13, 2008 1:08 pm

With John on the all caps.... but I did read it. in a few weeks if you have not changed it yourself back to standard font I will do it for you as the moderator. Besides it will get read by more people if you reduce it.

bubble up viscocity measure sounds good

Its like using the universal auto paint viscocity measure cups. You put in a measued amount and count how long it takes to drip out the tiny hole in the cup. I should not say universal. May be a better word for it. I hear the concept is universal. What I do not know is if the Auto paint industry uses a universal hole size in their paint viscometers.

Another issue; problem with Adding RUG so early is you cant test for water further down the road. There is no none method to test for water once RUG is added.
Life; It's all in the Balance

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Postby td2dv » Sun Jul 13, 2008 11:21 pm

Moderator removed the oversized font.

Please avoid the attitude that "My way is the best/only way". There are so many variables, and so many ways to do each aspect, and many of them work. When people accept that, there are less flaming posts. VO is one area where the "accepted wisdom" is constantly being revised, and often due to the work of people on this forum.
Benz 240-D
Minneapolis
WVO/RUG (10%) 5 mo/yr
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Postby biovindiesel » Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:39 am

Hi td2dv. When it's too big, it hurts.
Last edited by biovindiesel on Tue Jul 15, 2008 12:32 am, edited 1 time in total.
~Cv
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Postby John Galt » Mon Jul 14, 2008 2:40 pm

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Last edited by John Galt on Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby td2dv » Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:28 pm

"WHEN IT IS TOO BIG IT HURTS."
"Kick him off the list if he doesn't wise up."

I get the picture,
Sorry to intrude.
Benz 240-D
Minneapolis
WVO/RUG (10%) 5 mo/yr
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Posts: 38
Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2008 4:47 pm

Postby John Galt » Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:06 pm

Thanks for making the change. Please stay and contribute. The only problem was the irritating type size.

How do you know the oil you mixing is completely dry?

Are you hot pan testing it before you mix it with solvents?

Wet oil will damage the IP.

I read somewhere that the test of the appropriate mix recipe is 'will it start cold'


Start cold with NO SMOKE is the correct test of the right blend for the conditions.
Last edited by John Galt on Tue Jul 15, 2008 12:05 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby VegMeister » Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:53 pm

Thanks for straightening the text problems. You'll notice there are no icons or avatars on this forum. That's why it's so nice here.

Cool test with the test tubes. Thanks for that, I'm thinking about just mixing RUG and centrifuged VO for some old crappy 7.3's rusting around here.

I have only one bit of advice here: forget waiting for the dieselcraft, buy a modified spinner at http://centralvalleybiodiesel.com. I'm not associated with them at all, and I don't know Terry except for the time that he has spent on the phone with me, helping me and teaching me. His product is top-grade. I just finished my cf setup using his product and I can say that you will not be disappointed if you buy his unit instead of a DC (btw, I have nothing against DC, if they didn't have such a long waiting list I'd be a DC owner right now. I was on their waiting list for a few months and finally said screw it and Terry shipped his unit to me for 11$ shipping, it arrived from California the next day. I'm in Wisconsin).

A++ Would buy again. Actually will be buying again.
centralvalleybiodiesel CF
1993 GMC Sierra K2500 6.5L + homebuilt veg kit, OEM glowplug failure (update: rebuilt with a 6.2 block, working fine)
1988 Ford 6.9L OEM dual tank, 90+% veg oil blend.
1989 Ford 7.3L, 80+% veg oil blend.
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Postby coachgeo » Tue Jul 15, 2008 11:39 am

td2dv wrote:"WHEN IT IS TOO BIG IT HURTS."
"Kick him off the list if he doesn't wise up."

I get the picture,
Sorry to intrude.
We all say bone headed things sometimes. That one was a little bone headed and not typically Johns style.

We do encourage "self moderation" in here. Im sure thats why John G. removed it.

Encouraging self moderatin also why I reccomended you to make the changes yourself before I stepped in and did it with the moderator tools.

BTW did you get my Personal Message (PM)?
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