TiH parts #s and a few questions

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TiH parts #s and a few questions

Postby hayduke » Fri Aug 22, 2008 8:29 pm

I looked through a couple forums and came up with some parts numbers on McMasterCarr for the Tube in Hose hardware like Frybrid and Sunwizard have, that I couldn't find in Sunwizard's system post.

Tee Fittings- 68115K41 $3.67 Each or 50785K74 $6.99 each
Compression Fittings 50915K325 $2.84/1 and replace brass with 1/2 plastic ferrules.
½ X 5/8 hose barb 5346K66 $10.20/5
½ X 5/8 hose barb 90 degree 53525K23 $6.37/2

Q1: Is there any reason I shouldn't be using a black iron tee, over the brass hose tee? Since the latter is twice the cost?

Q2: on a 97 dodge, am I good with 3/8" aluminum tubing, or should I go for 1/2"?

Q3: Replacing the metal ferrules with plastic makes the compression fittings reusable and don't require drilling. Any idea where can I find plastic ferrules for the compression fittings? Hardware store?

Q4: Do you run coolant from the FPHE to the IP? How crucial is having coolant heat as close to the engine as possible on the return line? Yes I will be in cold weather.

Q 5: Should I use AN compression fittings (aluminum) for the connections in my system to prevent polymerization?

I think that's all for now, thanks for the help thus far! The big stuff is mostly coming in from the mail! I'm coming down to hardware at this point.
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Postby mortarsprayer » Sat Sep 13, 2008 9:42 am

Good morning Hayduke.
Your post has been sitting for a while and I just noticed it.

Q1 I used all brass parts in mine to avoid the corrosion. In the end it cost more but I like how brass works/feels as far as re-using and adjusting if needed.

Q2 On my conversion, all the veggie path is 3/8" Aluminum. The one exception is the line from the output of the lift pump to the filter selector valve. To connect snugly on that tube, Ii needed to to go to 5/16" ID hose.
I am adding an extra vacuum gauge after the tank selector valve so i can compare how hard the lift pup is working with D2 compared to alternative fuels. That should also show if the lines are too restrictive compared to stock.


Q3. I found plastic ferrels in the plumbing department. I have decided to go with brass instead. I was concerned about being able to take apart the HIH assembly but if I ever need to , I will just replace the aluminum tube. The odds of that are remote.


Q4. Interesting question. Sun wold have an answer from hands on cold miles. My best guess is if you insulate the line you will be just fine. Golden Fuels did a video showing temps of different components and came to the conclusion that we are way on the safe side. Their suggestion is the mass of the pump and then the head is huge and hot compared to the little bit of fuel.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCN7J8mSBYE

http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?u ... uelSystems

I used clear veggie hose here to check for bubbles.

There is a neat double stack banjo bolt that lets you run the Veggie line right to the IP. It doubles up with the Inlet of the D2 line.
It is the 14 x 1.5mm double stack bolt that is needed. I got one form a local Fuel injection store.
****
NOTE: The double stack banjo bolt was about 3 threads too long. To fix this I compared the depth of thread of the original and then shortened the double stack to match. DO NOT just try to tighten it up, do a careful hand fitting instead.
****
Q5 I used mainly brass fittings. They were compression, hose barb and nipple. I could not find a brass 90 degree hose barb to 5/8 JIC where I needed to go into the FPHE so I end with a plated hydraulic fitting there.


Please take pictures and descriptions of your conversion to share later on the list.

Best regards,
Nolan
Nolan
95 Dodge Cummins 3500 Flatbed, dump.
Started life as chassis cab, 2WD automatic pos, converted to 4WD with 5 speed that pulls like a freight train.
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Re: TiH parts #s and a few questions

Postby SirDanielWhitney » Wed Feb 19, 2014 1:02 pm

Will the brass ferrule in the compression fitting galvanically react with the aluminum tube? Has anybody experienced this or noticed the aluminum corroding where in contact with the brass? I would guess the most corrosion would be where the coolant inside the TiH assembly meets the brass ferrule and the aluminum tube.

And another question: Do little fracture points begin to form on the Aluminum tube where it meets the compression fitting ferrule? I know the failure of Aluminum starts from micro-cracks on the surface, and I could imagine the vibrations of a car must have a pretty fierce effect on this. Has anybody experienced a cracked Al tube where it mates with a compression fitting?


I'm going through with the same plan on my '95 Dodge 2500, but I'll double check it in a few years with these in mind. I live in the dry high plains of Colorado, so I'm guessing it'll take a decade at least for the galvanic corrosion? The Aluminum I'm using is a 3000 series alloy (McMaster-Carr 5177K66).


Thanks!
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Re: TiH parts #s and a few questions

Postby SunWizard » Tue Feb 25, 2014 9:21 am

SirDanielWhitney wrote:Will the brass ferrule in the compression fitting galvanically react with the aluminum tube? Has anybody experienced this or noticed the aluminum corroding where in contact with the brass? I would guess the most corrosion would be where the coolant inside the TiH assembly meets the brass ferrule and the aluminum tube.

After 8 years on mine where they all are brass on aluminum and not any problem.
And another question: Do little fracture points begin to form on the Aluminum tube where it meets the compression fitting ferrule? I know the failure of Aluminum starts from micro-cracks on the surface, and I could imagine the vibrations of a car must have a pretty fierce effect on this. Has anybody experienced a cracked Al tube where it mates with a compression fitting?

None on mine, but the ends of every aluminum tube connect to rubber hose which lowers any vibration force.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
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