Dieselcraft WVO centrifuge works great-My filter dewater rig

Collecting, filtering and dewatering of WVO SVO vegetable oil. For Biodiesel producers too.

Moderators: SunWizard, coachgeo

Re: Pump Size question

Postby SunWizard » Wed Jun 17, 2009 10:30 pm

daw wrote:Just finished reading page 152 of the thread on the other site. So all 80s Acuras were gear pumps and most Hondas. Is there a way to tell?

Yes by looking for the 2 bumps on the housing backside where the 2 gear shafts are.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
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Re: Pump Size question

Postby daw » Thu Jun 18, 2009 6:29 am

SunWizard wrote:
daw wrote:Just finished reading page 152 of the thread on the other site. So all 80s Acuras were gear pumps and most Hondas. Is there a way to tell?

Yes by looking for the 2 bumps on the housing backside where the 2 gear shafts are.


THANKS a million, Sun!!! I understand the 2 gear shafts!!!!
2000 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins
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Re: thinking of re-designing my CF rig

Postby oddssodds » Wed Jul 08, 2009 9:42 am

canolafunola wrote:I am thinking of redesigning my CF rig to make it more portable and would like to get some feedback. I want everything mounted on a hand truck except for the drum. I want to be able to wheel the rig up to a 55 gal drum of oil (open or closed top), hook up the suction and discharge to the drum and start CF'ing and end up with a drum of filtered/dewatered oil. The suction line will go in from the top so no holes on the drum need to be drilled. The CF will discharge into a large pan funnel before draining back into the drum. The pan funnel will be about 2 ft in diameter to give the oil maximum exposure to open air to help with moisture evaporation before going back into the drum. I am not sure how I want to handle the discharge from the pressure relief valve and the bypass. Do you think feeding both back into the input of the pump will work or should it be dischaged directly into the drum?

For the heat exhanger I will have the standard 4500W 220V element x2 running on 120V in 1 vertical black iron pipe. I want to spiral wrap the pipe with 5/8 copper coil for the suction line to pick up some waste heat before going into the heat exchanger. Not sure if it is possible to wrap 5/8 dia copper around a 1.25" pipe. What do you think? I am sure I left a lot of details out but this is just a start. Comments and suggestions welcome.


something like this?

http://picasaweb.google.com/oddssodds/O ... 8513389186
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Postby grimey » Thu Jul 23, 2009 1:47 pm

Has anyone tried using a FPHE with engine coolant to heat up the oil before the CF. Im designing a setup that will only be used on our bus and mainly while driving, so im trying to decide if the water heater elements in the pipe would be best, or using the heat from the coolant, since its already there.
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Postby coachgeo » Fri Jul 24, 2009 12:58 am

if you pull heat out w/ a FPHE from your drive engine's cooling system to opperate a heated centrifuge; will there be enough heat left for another FPHE to heat the Veg. oil your fueling with?
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Postby grimey » Fri Jul 24, 2009 9:04 am

my bus has 2 different coolant loops coming off the engine. and right now ive got it set up so one heats my lines, the FPHE, and the filter. While the other heats the pickup on my clean tank, and then through another larger H.E. it heats my entire dirty tank for filtering. (i have 2 veg tanks)

As of now, the coolant has been more then plenty to heat all of this. Im getting temps on average of 150F from the dirty tank which is all the way in the back of the bus. Would it be safe to assume, that since im able to heat a whole tank to 150F or more, that i could use a FPHE to heat oil right befor the CF to above 150F?
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o-ring placement for water heater

Postby carybrief » Thu Aug 27, 2009 9:32 am

I am putting together my system [per your design. got super lucky on the drums - someone sold me two new .drums from Grainger - only 30 gallon but brand new for $16. they list for $125. anyway sorry for the bragging. on your pic for the h2 heater element/washer /o-ring where is the o-ring in the placement starting with the heater, it loooks like a washer is right up against the heater but from there I can't tell if the 0 ring is next or what. also what size oring? thanks a bunch Cary
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Postby SunWizard » Thu Aug 27, 2009 10:56 am

From post#1:
"I solved the sealing of the water heater elements. Use a 1/16" thick by 1.25" ID metal washer first on the element, then a 1.5" ID washer with a 1/8" x 1.25" O-ring inside. The bigger washer acts like a retainer, preventing blowout."
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
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Postby rkpatt » Wed Nov 11, 2009 8:18 am

BTW- Northern tool has reasonably price hydraulic hoses .


Easy places to find those large washers and o-rings for WH elements ? - Thanks

quote="SunWizard"]From post#1:
"I solved the sealing of the water heater elements. Use a 1/16" thick by 1.25" ID metal washer first on the element, then a 1.5" ID washer with a 1/8" x 1.25" O-ring inside. The bigger washer acts like a retainer, preventing blowout."[/quote]


Thanks
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Postby SunWizard » Wed Nov 11, 2009 9:30 am

rkpatt wrote:Easy places to find those large washers and o-rings for WH elements ? - Thanks

Tractor store parts counters.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
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Heater elements

Postby seriousbum » Tue Nov 24, 2009 12:24 pm

When I went into Lowe's to see about heater elements for my filter system, I was surprised to find that the threads were different from regular pipe thread. Are there any elements with regular pipe thread or pipes with a thread like the heater element. I am not sure what kind of thread the heater elements had and the sales person couldn't enlighten me. ??????
2002 F-250 two tank custom comversion pulling 32 ft RV
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Postby tubular031 » Tue Nov 24, 2009 12:31 pm

I know sun talks about washers on his, but all I did was wrap the threads with lots of yellow tape, put the little rubber oring on, set the Tee in the vise and crank it till it wont go no more! I have done 3 now and not one has leaked.
01 F350 CCLB SRW

Veggie conversion done!
http://www.burnveg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=623
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Re: Heater elements

Postby coachgeo » Tue Nov 24, 2009 12:35 pm

seriousbum wrote:... was surprised to find that the threads were different from regular pipe thread. ..
Many threads about using Hot Water Heating elements have mentioned this. Most have just used sealant etc and just run it it tight even though it's mix matched thread and its worked fine........ least that is what I recall.

just a guess but a Search for the below might lead you to some post mentioning this.

thread* element
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Postby SunWizard » Tue Nov 24, 2009 1:10 pm

The threads don't have to match, they are close enough if you use an o-ring.

Even though some go without it (and I did to start with) 50 cents for 2 washers to hold captive the o-ring as I mention in post#1 here is worthwhile protection to avoid it blowing out when its hottest and under most pressure. Which would of course be: you aren't there and it sprays your 50 gallons all over the place.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
SunWizard
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Postby tubular031 » Tue Nov 24, 2009 2:15 pm

SunWizard wrote: blowing out when its hottest and under most pressure.


Ill bet mine dont leak because none of them are under pressure. I keep forgetting about you pressure CF guys.

I agree with sun, do the washers if its under pressure.
01 F350 CCLB SRW

Veggie conversion done!
http://www.burnveg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=623
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