Dieselcraft WVO centrifuge works great-My filter dewater rig

Collecting, filtering and dewatering of WVO SVO vegetable oil. For Biodiesel producers too.

Moderators: SunWizard, coachgeo

Postby msgebhart » Sat Nov 28, 2009 6:07 pm

I just got my cf put together today and I can attest that you HAVE TO HAVE the washers and o-rings. I did a short run of oil and it didn't leak at first until the oil got hot and then it started to seep. I went to the local tractor dealer and he had everything on hand. Unfortunately I just found this site today and read this whole post and learned not to use galvanized pipe so I will need to redo a couple of things. I do have to say Sunwizard what a simple design and it works GREAT!!! Thanks for all the info. I have a couple of questions. I read earlier in here that if you run a one tank system to leave the white cream on the bottom and just run the oil off the top? If I am understanding correct? Last year I burned a few hundred gallons in a Mazda diesel filtering with socks off ebay which lead me to your xyz website where I built my cf from. In the Mazda I only burned the sweet brown oil off the top. Do I or has anyone done ph tests on their oil. Sorry for being long winded, a million q's.
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Postby SunWizard » Sat Nov 28, 2009 9:53 pm

msgebhart wrote:I read earlier in here that if you run a one tank system to leave the white cream on the bottom and just run the oil off the top?

Yes.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
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Postby SunWizard » Sat Jul 24, 2010 10:50 pm

I have gotten lots of questions about comparing the motor driven bowl CF to the fluid driven type I use.

There is a big flaw in the repeated posts about how the motor driven 1 pass is so much easier and better, but its not since to get 1 pass you go very slow, here is how you operate the 2 varieties:

Fluid driven: I guess how long to run it based on past results, say 4 hours, at the end I do a test to see if its dewatered enough. If it doesn't pass, I usually run for 2 more hours. This type for 1/3 the price has faster dewatering since it uses both CF action and flash evaporation (if you compare models producing the same g force.) This type also only needs 1 barrel versus 2, so is easier to move around and even take on road trips.

Motor driven: I run at a much slower rate, which I guess at based on past results with my unique VO, say 12gph so my same 45 gallon batch as above takes 4 hours. At the end I do a test to see if its dewatered enough. If it doesn't pass, its another pass for 4 more hours.

No luck involved with either CF, everyone should test, and most run through a small micron filter (which lasts 1000s of gallons) when pumping into the car as a final proof you got the particles. With either type, another nice benefit of a CF is a simple test I often do at the end: clean the rotor and run the CF a little longer and see how quick and thick I get deposits. This is helpful when I get a new VO source, since each one tends to be unique.

They both take around the same time, power and user work for a given amount of VO, thats what matters. I think either type of CF is a huge advance over other filter/dewatering methods, since they get to a very low micron level very fast, and dewater at the same time, with only minor differences between the types.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
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cf types and use

Postby seriousbum » Sun Jul 25, 2010 7:48 am

I agree with your assessment. I run a SpinnerII type cf that is driven by the oil coming through. I encourage everyone to follow your advice, especially to find out how much junk is left in the oil by cleaning the cf and rerunning. Like your experience, my experience has been that once the water is out, the junk is out.

I run my oil through suspended sock filters to prefilter. I think it is faster. Also, I have to heat my oil to make the cf work right, so I do that while sock-filtering. I can get a 55g drum done in 2 hours, by prefiltering with the sock filters. While the cf is running, I run the overflow through the sock filter setup also. My pump puts out more pressure than my cf can use so I just bypass to the sock filters.

One other step that I take is to put acetone in the oil. I use 1 ounce per 5 gallons or 11 punces per drum. I discovered that I have to add the acetone after the water is out or the cleaning/dewatering process takes a lot longer.

By using acetone my emissions are better, my mileage is up and I believe my injectors stay cleaner.
2002 F-250 two tank custom comversion pulling 32 ft RV
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Pump Combinations

Postby harrisonm3 » Thu Jul 29, 2010 12:12 pm

This pump flows a little higher volume but it is a good deal.

Will these specs work?
Pump Type: Close Coupled
HP: 1/2
Phase: 1
Voltage: 115/230
Amps AC: 7.6/3.8
Motor Frame: NEMA 48
Motor Enclosure: ODP
Port Size (In.): 3/8
Suction Lift (Ft.): 3.6
GPM @ Freeflow: 4.4
GPM @ 20 PSI: 4.1
GPM @ 40 PSI: 3.8
GPM @ 60 PSI: 3.5
GPM @ 100 PSI: 3
Max. Pressure (PSI): 100
Relief Valve: Piston
Seal: Buna N Lip
Body Material: Bronze
Shaft Material: Stainless Steel
Temp. Range: -40 to 210 F
Max. Temp. (F): 210
Gear Material: Bronze Spur
Max. RPM: 1725
Bushing: Carbon Graphite
Length (In.): 5 3/8
Width (In.): 5 5/8
Height (In.): 12 1/2
Have an awesome day
Converted Dodge 2500 97 4x4,
3 valve looped return, Heated pickup, TIH, 31 FPHE.
http://veggiescout.blogspot.com/
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Re: Pump Combinations

Postby SunWizard » Thu Jul 29, 2010 3:04 pm

harrisonm3 wrote:Will these specs work?
GPM @ 100 PSI: 3
Max. Pressure (PSI): 100

Yes that one looks fine for an OC-20 which needs 1 gpm at 90 psi. It might even work for an OC-50.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
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What would be to many Gallons Per Minute?

Postby harrisonm3 » Fri Jul 30, 2010 3:05 pm

The Teel pump 1/3rd HP is pushing out about 6-10 GPM.

It is a rotary gear pump. Not that loud either.

I'm using old oil that smells good (I've been in Iraq for a year)

Mixed it around for about three hours a week ago and it still has not settled out. It is milky in color, and it was clear before.
Have an awesome day
Converted Dodge 2500 97 4x4,
3 valve looped return, Heated pickup, TIH, 31 FPHE.
http://veggiescout.blogspot.com/
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What is to many Gallons per minute for the oc-20?

Postby harrisonm3 » Fri Jul 30, 2010 3:37 pm

What would be to many Gallons Per Minute?
Have an awesome day
Converted Dodge 2500 97 4x4,
3 valve looped return, Heated pickup, TIH, 31 FPHE.
http://veggiescout.blogspot.com/
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Re: What is to many Gallons per minute for the oc-20?

Postby SunWizard » Sun Aug 01, 2010 6:54 pm

harrisonm3 wrote:What would be to many Gallons Per Minute?

For what?
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
SunWizard
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Postby harrisonm3 » Sun Aug 01, 2010 11:20 pm

For an OC-20 CF
Have an awesome day
Converted Dodge 2500 97 4x4,
3 valve looped return, Heated pickup, TIH, 31 FPHE.
http://veggiescout.blogspot.com/
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Re: What is to many Gallons per minute for the oc-20?

Postby SunWizard » Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:19 am

harrisonm3 wrote:What would be to many Gallons Per Minute?

Anything more than 1gpm at 90 psi gets bypassed around the CF.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
SunWizard
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Postby harrisonm3 » Tue Aug 03, 2010 3:47 pm

harrisonm3 wrote:

Will these specs work?
GPM @ 100 PSI: 3
Max. Pressure (PSI): 100

Yes that one looks fine for an OC-20 which needs 1 gpm at 90 psi. It might even work for an OC-50

If 2/3 of the oil is not being filtered I would consider that not working.

Am I missing something
Have an awesome day
Converted Dodge 2500 97 4x4,
3 valve looped return, Heated pickup, TIH, 31 FPHE.
http://veggiescout.blogspot.com/
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Joined: Wed Oct 29, 2008 9:54 am

Postby SunWizard » Tue Aug 03, 2010 5:35 pm

harrisonm3 wrote:harrisonm3 wrote:

If 2/3 of the oil is not being filtered I would consider that not working.

Am I missing something

Read my thread here about the dieselcraft, I bypass some VO but not that much. It makes no difference that some bypasses other than costing a little more to run the larger motor it needs. Its not like an absolute rated filter where 1 pass through is enough.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
SunWizard
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Postby alexan0030 » Wed Aug 25, 2010 6:52 am

You can also buy pure acetic acid. Vinegar has only 5% acetic acid in it which is a very small amount for this purpose.
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Postby gypsyjake » Fri Sep 03, 2010 9:48 pm

I'm am psyched to have been turned on to this forum, really awesome work. Convinced me to buy a centrifuge, where there a lot of naysayers in other forums. I noticed this picture http://www.xyzworks.com/mobile1.jpg of your mobile unit (it is right?). I know how you stress being able to catch the discharge when you turn the pump off and was wondering
1. How you attached that T/Ball valve to the base of the centrifuge like that in order to easily catch the discharge?
2. Have you had any problems with oil backing up and slowing down the centrifuge?

Thanks a lot[/url]
7.3l IDI 4wd Ambulance camper van
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