1984 Euro 300D Non-Turbo

A description and pics of your SVO WVO Vegetable Oil conversion, help the next person who gets that model.

Moderators: SunWizard, coachgeo

1984 Euro 300D Non-Turbo

Postby hheynow » Wed Aug 27, 2008 7:29 pm

Found my car two weeks ago. It's a cherry 1984 Euro 300D Non-Turbo with 132K miles. I have been ordering components from separate vendors. It will be a two tank system using the following parts:

13 gal RDS marine aluminum tank w/ electric fuel level sender
Hot Fox
Klaus Old's coolant heated filter head
Fattywagon's injection line heaters
13 plate HE
Pollak 6 port valve
12v aux fuel pump for VO
Stewart Warner mechanical vegoil and water gauges
Engine block heater

To be installed before winter:
115v fuel tank stick-on pad heater (plug in over night for winter B100 use)
Diesel (B100) filter 12v pad heater (for winter B100 use)

It will be a while before it's together but I will take photos as the work progresses.


I will use the empty switch plates on my console for any switches I install.
I will remove the ashtray and mount the two gauges there after having made a stained oak mounting plate that matches the fake wood trim.
The 13 gal tank fits to the left of the tire well allowing complete access.
Plenty of trunk space for luggage or cubies. My choice.
FOR SALE: 1997 Ford F-350 7.3L PSD - Plant Drive kit
1984 Mercedes Euro 300D NA - Custom two tank
Running on used plant oil and biodiesel since May 2006
hheynow
 
Posts: 147
Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:10 pm
Location: California

Postby hheynow » Sat Oct 25, 2008 11:35 pm

Update on the installation.

All the components are installed under the hood with custom brackets as is the trunk aux tank on it's own platform. Today I drilled through the trunk wall and back seat floor and with rubber body grommets plumbed the coolant loop and spliced in my water gauge sender. At first there was an air lock in the loop but nothing a garden hose couldn't fix. It heats really fast with a 5/8"ID hose. I didn't want the Hot Fox heating air so I filled the VO tank one third.

What's nice is the car is drivable. Only difference is now there is a coolant loop.

Next I'm addressing the fuel plumbing in the next few days. It all will very different than stock. I'm using a separate vegoil filter so I'm deleting the banjo bolt on the stock filter housing so there will be no cross contamination while running VO. I'm replacing the return junction with a brass fittings junction so no return will enter the stock filter head. I have a 12mm 1.5 plug for where the banjo fitting entered the filter head. I'm also installing a three way ball valve on the return to bleed off any air from the looped return. I'm replacing all the 25 year old clear fuel hose with J30R9. Vegtherm to be installed with switch and relay.

Then electrical
(switches, relays, gauges, injection line heater)
Got a beautiful piece of clear cherry for my gauge panel. It's going where the ashtray is. The grain matches the faux grain dash strips exactly. I just need to match a stain to the faux grain. Besides the water and VO temp gauge I'm drilling a third hole for a 12v receptacle since I lost it with the ashtray.

Obviously I'm in no rush to complete the conversion but I do see the light at the end of the tunnel.
FOR SALE: 1997 Ford F-350 7.3L PSD - Plant Drive kit
1984 Mercedes Euro 300D NA - Custom two tank
Running on used plant oil and biodiesel since May 2006
hheynow
 
Posts: 147
Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:10 pm
Location: California

Postby hheynow » Sat Nov 08, 2008 4:14 pm

More delays but I see the light at the end of the tunnel. My sub-chassis coolant lines were not insulated so while driving hard I couldn't get over 60*C. They are now insulated as is the fuel line too. I caved in and ordered two 3-way Hydra Force valves the other day. Delivery on Monday. Although I bought a 6-port Pollak off of eBay last month the seller said I could return it...or maybe I should save it for when the original Pollak fails in my truck. Reading threads at infopop made me want to do it right the first time. Three of the five gauges are in. They are VO temp, water temp & a volt meter (My Euro doesn't have one). Still have to make the other gauge plate (out of cherry wood) for where the cigarette lighter was. There will be a fuel level gauge for the aux tank (sender does not match the dash gauge) and either a vacuum or pressure gauge depending on whether I decide on an aux lift pump for the VO side. Also, I'm installing a 12v female receptacle so I can charge my cell phone since the original was removed with the ashtray .
FOR SALE: 1997 Ford F-350 7.3L PSD - Plant Drive kit
1984 Mercedes Euro 300D NA - Custom two tank
Running on used plant oil and biodiesel since May 2006
hheynow
 
Posts: 147
Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:10 pm
Location: California

Postby coachgeo » Sat Nov 08, 2008 8:58 pm

Thanks for the update. Glad to see things rolling along
Life; It's all in the Balance

Moderator
coachgeo
 
Posts: 569
Joined: Thu Mar 06, 2008 10:46 am
Location: North Texas

Postby hheynow » Sat Nov 08, 2008 10:08 pm

I changed a few components since the first post. The 13 plate heat exchanger is now a 26 plate. As mentioned above, I'm not using the 6 port Pollak rather two 3-way Hydra Force valves. I passed on Stewart Warner and bought Isspro EV gauges instead in black on black to match the dash. Can't decide on the need for the aux lift pump until my test drive. Don't know if this is over kill but I have an extra Vegtherm Mega that I may install but on a switch w/ relay not hard wired always on while on VO. I know the Mega is over rated for this car but my alternator can handle it and my VO temp sender will be after it...just in case. I may just use it until I'm fully warm then flip it off. The injection line heater will be hard wired. Geez that sure was a PITA to install.
FOR SALE: 1997 Ford F-350 7.3L PSD - Plant Drive kit
1984 Mercedes Euro 300D NA - Custom two tank
Running on used plant oil and biodiesel since May 2006
hheynow
 
Posts: 147
Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:10 pm
Location: California

Postby hheynow » Fri Nov 14, 2008 8:47 am

Fuel lines are plumbed but there is a pesty air leak on my diesel side. Damn hose clamps. :x Once I bleed out the air and am satisfied that the diesel supply is OK I'll prime the VO line. Looks like it will be finished this weekend.
FOR SALE: 1997 Ford F-350 7.3L PSD - Plant Drive kit
1984 Mercedes Euro 300D NA - Custom two tank
Running on used plant oil and biodiesel since May 2006
hheynow
 
Posts: 147
Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:10 pm
Location: California

Postby hheynow » Fri Nov 28, 2008 7:09 pm

All bugs have been worked out. I re-plumbed the fuel flow so both filters are on vacuum and my Airtex boost pump is now pre-D2 filter and on its own switch.

Now I have a leaking injector. :x Seriously considering Bosio nozzles.
FOR SALE: 1997 Ford F-350 7.3L PSD - Plant Drive kit
1984 Mercedes Euro 300D NA - Custom two tank
Running on used plant oil and biodiesel since May 2006
hheynow
 
Posts: 147
Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:10 pm
Location: California

Postby hheynow » Wed Dec 10, 2008 12:41 am

Had frost last night for the first time this season. Car started right up and VO system was flawless with plenty of VO heat at 28*F ambient. Can't wait until it gets really cold. I'm so glad I have an insulated two tank system.
FOR SALE: 1997 Ford F-350 7.3L PSD - Plant Drive kit
1984 Mercedes Euro 300D NA - Custom two tank
Running on used plant oil and biodiesel since May 2006
hheynow
 
Posts: 147
Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:10 pm
Location: California

Postby hheynow » Thu Dec 11, 2008 7:30 pm

Ordered Monark nozzles from Mercedes Source today. Thanks SW! My local diesel injection shop happens to be Bosch Authorized Service so I spoke to them about them changing and pressure balancing them. No problem. They've done this countless times for many Elsbett customers, but not with Monarks.
FOR SALE: 1997 Ford F-350 7.3L PSD - Plant Drive kit
1984 Mercedes Euro 300D NA - Custom two tank
Running on used plant oil and biodiesel since May 2006
hheynow
 
Posts: 147
Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:10 pm
Location: California


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