Preventing Polymerization - Bloxygen

Collecting, filtering and dewatering of WVO SVO vegetable oil. For Biodiesel producers too.

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Preventing Polymerization - Bloxygen

Postby all_grown_up » Sat Sep 06, 2008 4:01 pm

Polymerization is a problem in the storing of oilbased wood finishes.

There is a product marketed to woodworkers which consists of a can of inert gases which are heavier than oxygen. You spray it into your can of partially used wood finish before sealing and storing.

I would think it would work for WVO but have yet to try.

Have a look at www.bloxygen.com
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Postby Burbarian » Sat Sep 06, 2008 8:29 pm

For storage, I've taken to using a mineral oil fluid cap. Pouring it slowly into a nearly full drum of dried and 2 micron filtered corn oil, the lighter mineral oil stays as a cap on top of the WVO without mixing. This acts as an air barrier sitting on top of the oil. Works even better on top of solidified lard and keeps microbes at bay. Then I screw down the drum plug and leave it till I need it. In tests, I've had open half full beakers of dewatered lard and wvo with an automatic transmission fluid 'cap' left for months without any noticeable degradation. Condensation does cause water droplets to form and contaminate the contents, so a sealed container is a must. Of course, this is less safe than a heavy inert gas as mineral oils are flammable, though dropping a match directly on top of it does not ignite the stuff.
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Postby coachgeo » Sun Sep 07, 2008 4:11 pm

Burbarian wrote:F... I've had open half full beakers of dewatered lard and wvo with an automatic transmission fluid 'cap' left for months without any noticeable degradation. ....
So why not use ATF for a WVO cap

ohh.. wait...... it's probably too heavy and just mixes right in with the oil?
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Postby Burbarian » Sun Sep 07, 2008 11:11 pm

It was a wvo/lard 'paste', and the ATF stayed on top. WVO ( my WVO is partially hydrogenated corn oil - I have terrible luck with oil supplies) and ATF will eventually intermix, but mineral oil floats.
1987 GMC Suburban 6.2L V8 IDI
1985 Merc 300TD
1968 CAT D4D 3304 dozer
1971 Waldon 4100 loader
1981 IHI 30F excavator
1995 Changfa 195 w/ ST 10kw genset
Burbarian
 
Posts: 195
Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2008 12:14 pm
Location: Vermont

This is even better

Postby all_grown_up » Sat Sep 27, 2008 9:54 am

Some people have suggested that "Dust-off" or similar products will work in the same way as Bloxygen and they are much cheaper.
Here is a brief discussion. Do your own research.

Varnish Storage hint: Each time you use the can of finish, before capping, be sure to flush out the airspace in the can with Kensington Duster II, Dust-Off, or some similar product. Just make sure that the product contains no air (actually oxygen is the culprit). Most computer, office supply, and home supply stores carry aerosol cans of several different brands of compressed air duster. Make sure your can has the 5” tube for directing the gas into your can or bottle. To use, insert the tube in the valve, then insert the other end of the tube into the can (but not below the surface of the liquid), lean the lid on top and release a gentle stream of gas into the can to displace all of the air (a couple seconds generally does the trick). Slide the tube out of the can and immediately tighten the cap. By the way, don’t be surprised if the can tends to collapse on storage. The duster gas slowly dissolves in the varnish, creating a vacuum. But if no oxygen is present, the varnish will stay fluid for literally years. You might want to transfer the varnish to a glass bottle with a tightly fitting lid and flush well with duster for long term storage (glass obviously won’t collapse under the vacuum). When I open a new, large can of finish, I routinely pour most of it immediately into a glass bottle, flush, cap, and put away for storage. The rest of the can, just the amount I expect to use within a week or two, goes into a smaller glass bottle, which I flush and cap after each use.
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