Are Metal drums/containers good for storage of wvo?

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Are Metal drums/containers good for storage of wvo?

Postby paradigmShift » Wed Sep 17, 2008 2:21 am

I am bran new here and this is my first post. I have done a fair amount of reading on vegetable oil but have not been able to find the answer to this question: Which (if any) metal containers are sufficient to store veggie oil in long term? I found somebody who wants to sell me some oil he processed (he moved and I got a tip from a friend) but it has been stored for a year or two in metal 55 gallon drums. I think it is svo and wvo. Either way can the containers contaminate the oil?

I have recently bought a converted 1983 Mercedes 240 D automatic :shock: . Two tank one switch system. Thanks.
1983 Mercedes 240D.
Bicycle.
Honda Moped. (not in use).
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Postby 240Volvo » Wed Sep 17, 2008 8:11 am

Should be OK, but you should find out what he was doing to filter and de-water the oil and post the answer here. You will need to test it for water content, and you may wish to transfer it to smaller barrels to transport, depending on what you have available. 55 gallons is very heavy. 5 gallons weighs about 35lbs.

Also, post details on the system in your car, including how the heat elements are plumbed. Have you had the compression tested in all cylinders? Had the Glow plugs pulled and checked? The injectors? These are vital components for your car to behave happily. That is a very forgiving engine, but these are crucial things even so.

Good luck, and welcome!
1984 Volvo 240 diesel with a single tank Elsbett conversion: electric fuel filter heater, FPHE, glow plugs, and injectors. Also injector line heaters and block heater, running 20%kero/80%WVO winter blend.
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Postby paradigmShift » Thu Sep 18, 2008 12:43 am

Thanks 240Volvo for the reply. I appreciate it! I found out the additive is called Soltron sp? He said he added maybe a tablespoon per 55 gallons. The oil is straignt svo not wvo. The barrels have a couple of inches of water on the bottom. I will defenitely research how to deal with that but I am sure I can test the upper 50 gallons and learn how to purify it if needed.

The additive is supposed to seperate the water from the oil. I have sources that he ran it just fine in his vehicle. I put some in a clear 5 gallon jug and it looks like pure golden light honeyish veggie oil. It is very obvious by his set up that he did this for many a moon.

A mercedes mechanic told me that in his opinion the engine sounded great. He did not run a compression test nor a glow plug test. Is it imperative to do these things if the car which has 164k on it runs quite well? The motor does shimmy a bit every once in a while, going up a steep grade, because a motor mount is starting to go. The injectors have not been checked.

As to the details of the system I do not know all the details. I will try to pull them together to post. I do know it has a heater switch that does heat the oil. It also is heated by the engine through the radiator fluid. The gas filter has a copper coil around the entire filter. No schemetics came with the car so I will have to do some more searching to find the exact details.

The car seems to lack power but I know deisels are notorious for that, it
is an automatic as well. I have a friend that has a 1982Turbo deisel Mercedes and he is going to give it a look on friday. He doesn't know the veggie side very well but he seems very competent on the general mechanics of these vehicles.

Any additional insight/ advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks for the well wishes and the kind welcome!
1983 Mercedes 240D.
Bicycle.
Honda Moped. (not in use).
paradigmShift
 
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 10:47 pm
Location: Northern Cal. Sonoma county

Postby 240Volvo » Thu Sep 18, 2008 7:41 am

Compression test will tell you if the combustion chambers hold pressure. That is important. Low compression in a cylinder can warn of major problems. Glow plugs that are not working will lead to incomplete combustion on cold start, which is also bad. Leaking injectors also lead to incomplete combustion.

Leaks of uncombusted fuel (petro-diesel or VO) will contaminate the lubricating oil, and that is very bad. Uncombusted VO around parts of the combustion chamber can lead to the build up of carbon deposits that can cause the valves to stick, leading to catastrophic failure.

By making sure that these engine parts are functioning well, you will ensure safe and happy motoring. You should also change your lube oil every 3k miles and use a purely (non-petroleum based) synthetic motor oil. This can reduce polymerization of the lube oil from fuel contamination. Having samples of your used lube oil tested at Blackstone labs every so often is also a good idea.

Engine maintenance is very important. make sure that your valves are adjusted according to manufacturer's specs (might be every 12-17k miles). You can improve the performance on VO by increasing the pop pressure on the injectors to the max of spec. This can be done when you have the injectors inspected. You should also advance the injection timing by 3-4 degrees, especially if the injectors are shimmed to increase pressure. The increase in pressure will atomize the VO better, improving combustion. The advancing the timing will also increase the completeness of combustion. This is because VO combusts slower than diesel, so by having the fuel injected earlier, it gives it the additional time needed to reach complete combustion. These things were probably not done when you car was converted. The time and money spent in prevention will repay in reliable service. To get a little extra power, read David's water injection thread. Water/ methanol or alcohol injection into the intake manifold can inexpensively give a power boost on acceleration, and can keep carbon build up in the engine reduced. Do a search for more info.

I would want to know more about the additive that was used on the oil, I have never heard of that. Was it added before filtering? Sounds like it might be good oil. Have you hot-pan tested it?
1984 Volvo 240 diesel with a single tank Elsbett conversion: electric fuel filter heater, FPHE, glow plugs, and injectors. Also injector line heaters and block heater, running 20%kero/80%WVO winter blend.
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Postby paradigmShift » Tue Sep 23, 2008 9:01 pm

Wow. That is a lot to digest. :shock: I really appreciate the long reply. I am doing a lot of catch up on what the previous owner left unattended to. :roll: QUESTION: I replaced the automatic tranny fluid along with a quart of a recommended additive called LUCAS tranny fix. The tranny shifts much smoother and at much better intervals. POTENTIAL PROBLEM OR?: On an acceloration from a dead stop after about 15 mins of driving the tranny slipped a little (first time in six weeks to two months of driving the car) and than didn't slip for the rest of the day (today). Should I be concerned? Can this simply happen on a fluid and filter and "tranny fix" change? Is it an automatic red flag or could it be just an andjustment to the new fluids? The filter was quite dirty and the fluid was slightly burnt befor I replaced it. Thanks again for the help! I hope to contribute where I can on this board in the days ahead and not just ask questions.
1983 Mercedes 240D.
Bicycle.
Honda Moped. (not in use).
paradigmShift
 
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 10:47 pm
Location: Northern Cal. Sonoma county

Postby 240Volvo » Wed Sep 24, 2008 8:39 am

I don't really know Mercedes and their idiosynchracies, so I can't help you there. Try one os the great MB sites like mercedessource.
1984 Volvo 240 diesel with a single tank Elsbett conversion: electric fuel filter heater, FPHE, glow plugs, and injectors. Also injector line heaters and block heater, running 20%kero/80%WVO winter blend.
240Volvo
 
Posts: 127
Joined: Thu Mar 06, 2008 8:34 am
Location: New Jersey


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