My filter/de-water set up

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My filter/de-water set up

Postby david p » Sat Oct 04, 2008 10:28 pm

I just recently had my '02 Jetta converted with an Elsbett 1 tank kit. I have a source of WVO (a Chinese restaraunt that changes the oil weekly). And I'm trying to get my filtering/dewatering system up and running. I'd like to get some feedback on my ideas if possible.

Here's what I have in mind:

1) Oil would go through a 100 micron pre-filter (http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=usplastic&category%5Fname=21329&product%5Fid=19540) into a 55 gallon drum (cut in half and about 7 feet off the ground).

2) It would flow through a pipe in the bottom to a 8"x32" 5/1 micron filter bag. (McMaster-Carr Part #5726K71)

3) Below the filter bag would be a funnel to catch the oil, then a pipe leading to the bottom of a 55 gallon drum.

4) I would pump the oil to my car from the top of the 55 gallon drum. Thus, it would work as a small up-flow system.

5) I was thinking of wrapping the 55 gallon barrel with a cable heater in order to heat it up after filtering to de-water it. (http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop/item/30690/icn/20-210971/wrap_on/31080.htm)


Here are a couple of questions I have about the idea:

Do I need an in between filter between the 100 and 5/1?
Does upflow or heating work better to de-water? Or should I use both?

Here's a link to a diagram:
http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr259/davidcpickett/wvosystem.jpg

Any feedback would be great. Thanks.
'02 VW Jetta with Elsbett 1 tank system (plan to run on WVO)
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Postby coachgeo » Sun Oct 05, 2008 8:09 am

With the ratio of that era VW diesels using WVO to destroyed engines being so high I would not trust any dewater set up that does not produce oil that passes the stringest of test.

another words.... dont matter how you build it... if it passes a stringent water test..... then your on the right track.

THIS is a reliable stringent water test. BTW I have NEVER reccomended these over a hot pan test but in this case IMHO it would be the way to go.

Would you please start a thread on your vehicle, its set up (what is in the Elsbett kit for this car) and keep us updated on your success and failures.
Life; It's all in the Balance

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Postby knoxbiobenz » Mon Apr 20, 2009 9:30 pm

settle the oil for a month
then settle the oil for another month
then settle the oil for another month
then, well it might be ready depending on the ambient temp.
This is the most important, easiest, hardest, and most vital step in the entire schabang. It is hard, well b/c you wanna hurry up and run the oil, it is easy b/c well it requires nothing but time and stock pile of VO.
I guess you probably get my point.
But TBHWO there is no way to tell if you are jumping to far in your filtering or not. Just try it out and see.
Best of Luck
1995 Dodge Cummins 2500, 194,xxx miles
2- Tank System Designed from Sun's
25,000 VO miles

1984 MB 300D- Sold
1983 MB 300TD- Sold
1980 MB 300SD- Sold
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Postby John Galt » Mon Apr 20, 2009 9:48 pm

if it passes a stringent water test..... then your on the right track.

THIS is a reliable stringent water test. BTW I have NEVER reccomended these over a hot pan test but in this case IMHO it would be the way to go.

SandyBrae test kit is also a very expensive water test. There are equally valid water tests for much less cost.
http://www.burnveg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=72
My favorite is the Vapor Test

For dewatering, nothing beats long term settling. The oil I collected last summer is now ready for processing, after settling and freezing over the winter.

The set-up you propose might work. Here's what I use, and I know it works to produce clear clean dry oil, for the past 3 years so far.
http://www.frybrid.com/forum/attachment ... 1193006636
http://www.burnveg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9
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Postby WD8CDH » Tue Apr 21, 2009 8:05 am

Hi David,

Since you are running a one tank system, you need to remove contaminants, water and FAT. That means at least part of your settling needs to be cool or cold to keep the fats from melting. Heated (but not over-heated) settling will remove water quicker.

You don't need anything between the 100 micron and the 5 micron filtering if you don't stir up what has settled out. My first stage of filtering, before settling, is window screen and my second stage, after settling, is a 2 micron Racor 1000 element. The settling before the filter allows the element to last me for over 1/2 a year filtering oil for 2 cars and my home heating system. I am using only HEATED upflow because I want to keep the fatts but want very effective water removal. In your case, cold upflow followed by heated upflow may be the best.
Ron Schroeder
WD8CDH
'85 MB 300DT 2 Tank
Since '81 former WVO conversions:
'83 240D
'80 Audi 4000D
'83 Isuzu Pup
'86 Golf
'76 Honda Civic with Kubota engine
Prior to the cars, several generators
Kubota Tractor
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