Of note, my 1978 300D odometer was never quite right with 195 tires (rec'd by shops for that model) but having slapped slightly oversized 205's on per rec by Marshall of Silver Star (who regularly sets toe in and alignment on these rids by hand!) my odometer is now 100% on point accurate from 0 to 80 m.p.h.



SunWizard wrote:Another method thats available for free to any of us is to get an accurate stopwatch and a helper and do timed 0-60mph acceleration runs with it floored. This is often done for comparison of different engine mods when you don't have a dyno.
I like to do 0-62m.p.h. land speed tests. 62m.p.h. = 100km/h and makes the conversion to metrics a little easier for me. I average the results from going in both directions to account for road incline. If you have never tried it, look to Unwired Tools for their coast down evaluation process. Based on your known gross vehicle weight (any truck weighing facility like the municipal dump) you time how long it takes to coast down from 70m.ph. to 60m.p.h. They have an online calculator which takes the weight and an average of your times (accounting for road incline) and determines your maximum potential and current actual mileage. Really quite a sublime algorythm:
For Benz owners, set your tow in first! (html version of this .pdf)
http://unwiredtools.com/manuals/toesettingA1.pdf
http://unwiredtools.com/utcoastdown.asp
and some discussion on physicforums.com
iPod toys:


If you have never done so, go open a terminal and starting "man"ing up in linux! pwd, cd, and ls (i really like ls -alh) alone will get you far, but just try top for now and you will see neo floating through the matrix... If you are a REAL mac geek ask me how to invoke "Bruce the Yak" from the original html coding still dormant within all licensed copies of "Final Cut Pro." Otherwise it is suffice to say, don't type this into your terminal, just rm -rf *.* if you don't like someone. . .


Sorry to veer so wildly off-topic so quickly

-pdk