Help With 95 Cummins Install

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Help With 95 Cummins Install

Postby knoxbiobenz » Mon Jan 26, 2009 8:32 pm

Hey Guys,
I am converting my newly acquired 95 2500 Cummins to a 2-Tanks System.
I am going to post pics with the finished work.

I wanted to know do you guys know where is the best place to T into the fuel fittings and the coolant line??
In the engine bay or under my feet (where the manual valves are located)..

Also, will a coolant temp gauge from Autozone reliably detect temp of VO??

Thanks,
Zack Smith
1995 Dodge Cummins 2500, 194,xxx miles
2- Tank System Designed from Sun's
25,000 VO miles

1984 MB 300D- Sold
1983 MB 300TD- Sold
1980 MB 300SD- Sold
knoxbiobenz
 
Posts: 40
Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2008 9:08 pm
Location: Knoxville, TN

Re: Help With 95 Cummins Install

Postby SunWizard » Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:22 pm

knoxbiobenz wrote:I am converting my newly acquired 95 2500 Cummins to a 2-Tanks System. I am going to post pics with the finished work.

I wanted to know do you guys know where is the best place to T into the fuel fittings and the coolant line?? In the engine bay or under my feet (where the manual valves are located)..

Both places, keeping your added hoses as short as you can.
Also, will a coolant temp gauge from Autozone reliably detect temp of VO??

A cheap mechanical one is working good for me for 2.5 years. The trick with any temp guage is to get the sender mounted right in the flow, and insulate the pipes all around it.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
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Postby knoxbiobenz » Wed Jan 28, 2009 9:12 pm

Sun,
Where exactly did you install your temp and oil pressure gauges?
Do yo u have any pics??
1995 Dodge Cummins 2500, 194,xxx miles
2- Tank System Designed from Sun's
25,000 VO miles

1984 MB 300D- Sold
1983 MB 300TD- Sold
1980 MB 300SD- Sold
knoxbiobenz
 
Posts: 40
Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2008 9:08 pm
Location: Knoxville, TN

Postby SunWizard » Wed Jan 28, 2009 11:29 pm

knoxbiobenz wrote:Sun,
Where exactly did you install your temp and oil pressure gauges?
Do yo u have any pics??

Where the cupholder used to be, along with the VO fuel level guage. No pics.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
SunWizard
Site Admin
 
Posts: 1723
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:53 pm
Location: N. Colorado

Postby knoxbiobenz » Thu Jan 29, 2009 8:15 pm

I am sorry I did not communicate that clearly.
Where in the lines are the two sensors plumbed in.
Did you just use a T fitting with a reducer bushing??
1995 Dodge Cummins 2500, 194,xxx miles
2- Tank System Designed from Sun's
25,000 VO miles

1984 MB 300D- Sold
1983 MB 300TD- Sold
1980 MB 300SD- Sold
knoxbiobenz
 
Posts: 40
Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2008 9:08 pm
Location: Knoxville, TN

Postby SunWizard » Thu Jan 29, 2009 8:59 pm

See my conversion thread here for the 2nd pic of the tees the senders are in:
http://www.burnveg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=28
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
SunWizard
Site Admin
 
Posts: 1723
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:53 pm
Location: N. Colorado

Postby knoxbiobenz » Sat Jan 31, 2009 9:15 am

Ok Good Deal,
I did not notice that pic in there b/4.
I have some time to work on the truck today.
I will make some cuts and go ahead and plug up the drain at the top of the stock filter.
1995 Dodge Cummins 2500, 194,xxx miles
2- Tank System Designed from Sun's
25,000 VO miles

1984 MB 300D- Sold
1983 MB 300TD- Sold
1980 MB 300SD- Sold
knoxbiobenz
 
Posts: 40
Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2008 9:08 pm
Location: Knoxville, TN

Postby knoxbiobenz » Sat Jan 31, 2009 10:28 pm

Good News Guys,
I made my first two cuts in the fuel line today. I cut the fuel return and the fuel line directly below the front seat. I put a 5/16" and a 3/8" hose barb T-fitting on the fuel line. I also put two hose clamps onto the existing fuel line b/c I thought it would add some security. I just plumbed the T into the valves that I had already mounted and closed them off.

I have been so confused about the routing of the valves but now I think it is all coming together. I guess I just needed to dig in and start doing it. I did, however, get drenched in diesel fuel and after washing my hair 4 times I think I got it out.

Tomorrow I am planning on cutting into the coolant line.
I think that I might just use 2 valves instead of Sun's 3 valves on his. What are the advantages to having the 3rd valve on there??
1995 Dodge Cummins 2500, 194,xxx miles
2- Tank System Designed from Sun's
25,000 VO miles

1984 MB 300D- Sold
1983 MB 300TD- Sold
1980 MB 300SD- Sold
knoxbiobenz
 
Posts: 40
Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2008 9:08 pm
Location: Knoxville, TN

Postby SunWizard » Sun Feb 01, 2009 12:41 pm

Theres no tees down there, as I said in the other thread. Keep this in 1 thread, or are you trying to confuse yourself further?

From your other thread:
"1 tee is right before the IP, another is the injector drains discussed in that thread, another tee (with no cut) is attached to the inlet side of the tank selector valve VO side. "

Do 3 valves, search on looped return.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
SunWizard
Site Admin
 
Posts: 1723
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:53 pm
Location: N. Colorado

Postby knoxbiobenz » Wed Feb 04, 2009 12:15 pm

Allright,
I think I am understanding it. The Haynes Repair manual has helped a lot.
After drawing out my diagram for the uptenth time I am now realizing that I am going to have to cut and T into the fuel line
1. in b/w the fuel heater and the lift pump.
2. after the lift pump and b/w the stock fuel filter.
This T'd line will then go into fuel filter selector valve and I can choose which filter to go to.

3. I will cut a line in the fuel return line that comes out of the IP and that T will then go to either a looped return for the VO or into the stock steel return line to the diesel tank.
1995 Dodge Cummins 2500, 194,xxx miles
2- Tank System Designed from Sun's
25,000 VO miles

1984 MB 300D- Sold
1983 MB 300TD- Sold
1980 MB 300SD- Sold
knoxbiobenz
 
Posts: 40
Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2008 9:08 pm
Location: Knoxville, TN

Postby knoxbiobenz » Wed Feb 04, 2009 12:16 pm

Do I need 3 three way valves??
Or do I need 2 three way valves and a 4 way valve??
Or am I totally wrong on both of these assumptions??
1995 Dodge Cummins 2500, 194,xxx miles
2- Tank System Designed from Sun's
25,000 VO miles

1984 MB 300D- Sold
1983 MB 300TD- Sold
1980 MB 300SD- Sold
knoxbiobenz
 
Posts: 40
Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2008 9:08 pm
Location: Knoxville, TN

Postby SunWizard » Wed Feb 04, 2009 2:59 pm

knoxbiobenz wrote:Allright,
I think I am understanding it. The Haynes Repair manual has helped a lot.
After drawing out my diagram for the uptenth time I am now realizing that I am going to have to cut and T into the fuel line
1. in b/w the fuel heater and the lift pump.
2. after the lift pump and b/w the stock fuel filter.
This T'd line will then go into fuel filter selector valve and I can choose which filter to go to.

3. I will cut a line in the fuel return line that comes out of the IP and that T will then go to either a looped return for the VO or into the stock steel return line to the diesel tank.

No those are also wrong places for tees, see my posts above or the other 2 threads about this. I listed the 5 places you cut, and thats not between the heater and lift pump.

Yes 3 - 3 ways as shown on my diagram.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
SunWizard
Site Admin
 
Posts: 1723
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:53 pm
Location: N. Colorado

Postby daw » Wed Feb 04, 2009 8:30 pm

SunWizard wrote:
knoxbiobenz wrote:Sun,
Where exactly did you install your temp and oil pressure gauges?
Do yo u have any pics??

Where the cupholder used to be, along with the VO fuel level guage. No pics.


Hey SunWizard.
What did you use for the temp gauge?

Thanks.
2000 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins
daw
 
Posts: 7
Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2008 9:04 pm
Location: Memphis, TN

Postby SunWizard » Wed Feb 04, 2009 10:30 pm

daw wrote:Hey SunWizard.
What did you use for the temp gauge?

A cheap coolant temp guage from autozone. But get one with 270 degree sweep so you can see it better.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
SunWizard
Site Admin
 
Posts: 1723
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:53 pm
Location: N. Colorado

Postby daw » Thu Feb 05, 2009 3:43 pm

SunWizard wrote:
daw wrote:Hey SunWizard.
What did you use for the temp gauge?

A cheap coolant temp guage from autozone. But get one with 270 degree sweep so you can see it better.


Did you go electrical on all your gauges?

I keep reading about using a needle valve to control the pulse on the fuel pressure sensor. I wonder if the temperature sensor would have the same issue.

Sorry KnoxBioBenz --- I didn't mean to hijack your thread.
2000 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins
daw
 
Posts: 7
Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2008 9:04 pm
Location: Memphis, TN

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