$1,200 Turnkey Centrifuge

Collecting, filtering and dewatering of WVO SVO vegetable oil. For Biodiesel producers too.

Moderators: SunWizard, coachgeo

$1,200 Turnkey Centrifuge

Postby AbsoluteCentrifuge » Tue Jan 27, 2009 12:54 am

I have just completed updating the website with new pictures and information of the upgraded ABSOLUTE CENTRIFUGE production model....*

More info in the Classifieds and/ or use the button at the bottom of this post to get to our website.

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*Moderator request to vendors to keep full ad material in the classifieds. A mention in other forums like I changed this ad into is debatable. Some forums frown on it entirely. IMHO its a good place to discuss your products in's and out's and keep classifieds as a place to wheel and deal. Just don't over do it or it gets spammy.
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Postby coachgeo » Tue Jan 27, 2009 10:35 am

Sweet Cfuge.

Got a test idea for you. Use Evaporation method to dewater half a batch of oil. Do a PT test on a water washed sample of it.

Then Cfuge the evaproated oil. PH test a sample of some water washed oil from this too.

Add some water to the contaminants from CF bowl. PH test this


Ok now with rest of batch CF this (no evaportaion dewatering first). Do same PH testing of a washed sample and contaminants from bowl.

please do a physical / Visual comparison of the CF bowl contaminants between Evaped oil and Non Evaped.

Thanks for your contribution.
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Postby AbsoluteCentrifuge » Wed Jan 28, 2009 2:18 am

Coachgeo,

Not quite sure why a pH test is necessary, the Centrifuge will not change the pH of the oil, this can only happen with additives (pH will undoubtedly be the same before and after centrifuging the WVO)? There is some great information regarding oxidation (a different problem with WVO) in this paper by Joe Beatty, it is definitely worth reading.

http://www.absolutecentrifuge.com/pdf/v ... s_fuel.pdf
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Postby coachgeo » Wed Jan 28, 2009 10:40 am

your answer suprises me, or you miss read what I wrote. Not meauring PH of oil. Measuring PH of contaminants.

Try water washing some samples of DIRTY oil you have around and see the PH levels of the WASH you get. I bet you will find some that are acidic, some neutral, some more on the base side. Rarely base if I recall right. Ocassionaly acidic.

One of the reasons to CF or settle is to get not just water alone out... but to get it out along with what disolved in it, and made it slightly caustic.

If CFed oil has a water wash that still shows sligty acidic it will speed up Poly in the users storage or fuel tanks. If its little on the base side it can harm IP, injectors etc. over time.

and for all we know.... the caustic nature of the contaminants in the water might have reactions with your CF bowl or other parts of you machine. This has been reported a few times with some other CF's. Granted it was really bad wet oil CFed in those situations if I recall right.

Therefor showing your CF can definately get out chemical contaminants that can cause any future water that get in the oil (condinsation) to become caustic... is a good thing.

In theory this should not be the case after good CFing.
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Postby AbsoluteCentrifuge » Thu Jan 29, 2009 3:59 am

Coachgeo,

Yes I did miss read your question, although I am not sure the oil will have a different pH as the contaminants? My chemistry is a bit hazy since my background is in biology, but I am pretty sure that the pH will be uniform across the debris, water and oil solution (=dirty WVO). I am saying this because the diffusion of the hydrogen/hydroxide ions (which is what makes the solution either acidic or basic) should make a homogeneous pH solution. Once you remove the contaminants (water and debris) from the WVO by centrifugation you will end up with cleaned oil but you will maintain the same ionic (hydrogen/hydroxide) concentration in the oil as you would in the separated contaminants prior to processing the WVO through the centrifuge. We know that the centrifuge separates things based on differences in specific gravity, and we also know that the oil molecules (long Hydrocarbon chains= triglycerides) have a higher specific gravity coefficient than hydrogen/hydroxide ions which means that you will not be able to separate the two from each other.

Now you did bring up the point of mist washing the oil, this I believe can be used to either raise or lower the pH to an acceptable level (water is almost neutral with a pH of 7) depending on whether you have an acidic or basic solution. This would also be accomplished by diffusion, the water will draw ions from the more concentration oil solution to the less concentrated water. Now some people will have a hard time adding water to their fuel based on the simple fact that although acidic and basic fuel has long term detrimental effects on automobile components, water has an immediate and drastic effect on automobile components namely the expensive injector pump.

This leads me to my point made in the previous message that I am pretty sure you are only going to want to change the pH of the WVO with an additive that will bind with the hydrogen/hydroxide ions in effect removing them from solution resulting in a more neutral solution. So if you are concerned with the pH of your oil, test it beforehand (Litmus test) and either process the oil (=acceptable pH) or if unacceptable pH decide on either disposing the oil, an alternative use besides automobile fuel, or utilize an additive that brings the oil to a more acceptable pH.

If I am flawed in my theory please let me know because like I said my expertise is not in chemistry.
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Postby coachgeo » Thu Jan 29, 2009 1:03 pm

The MINI mist wash is a suggested way of measuring how well one has cleaned their WVO. A search of here and infopop and you will find it mentioned often I think. The wash is what the test uses. It's easier to measure the wash than the oil. Well CFed oil has neutral PH

Were talking only 8oz or so. It does not go in the engine.
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Postby AbsoluteCentrifuge » Thu Jan 29, 2009 2:00 pm

I forgot to address the second part of your message (it was really late) regarding the possible caustic nature of the WVO and the polymerization that may accompany it.

The enclosure is 100% powder coated, and as far as I know does not represent a source for polymerization reactions. I use stainless steel hardware which I also believe will not lead to polymerization reactions (if so very little). This leaves the bowl and the fittings; the bowl is 100% aluminum which has a high corrosion tolerance and is inherently a non-reactive metal (less oxidative properties than steel, copper etc..). Lastly the fittings are black steel which can contribute to polymerization (if exposed over long periods of time), but I figure the oil spends very little time flowing through these fittings (total of ~6in worth of steel piping and fittings) so not much exposure takes place.

Very interested in your thoughts on this.
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Postby coachgeo » Thu Jan 29, 2009 2:44 pm

This sounds like great material and coating selections. Not really concerned with promoting poly. Like you say its not in the CF that long.

It's more of... can it withstand cleaning some nasty oil for example, if some fryer cleaner is in the oil and the CFer didn't know it. Im no material expert but those sound like ones that could handle this well. This has been noted as a problem wiht some of the small oil pressure type CF's.

look forward to you participation in various threads thru out this board. Its a good way for you to stay abreast of the changing WVO world and the needs of your potential customers.
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Postby AbsoluteCentrifuge » Thu Jan 29, 2009 6:43 pm

I believe from my experience that gravity fed CF's are more efficient than the small spinner CF's at removing contaminants from WVO, that is why I sell them not the others.

The problem with the small spinner CF's is the flow rate is too fast to efficiently remove the contaminants, that is why you have to process the same batch of oil over and over again to clean results. The small rotor (small volume, small diameter) is also an issue, they try to counter this issue by spinning their rotor extremely fast but the g-force they generate does not make up for what they lack in volume, rotor diameter and excessive flow rates. Now this is not true with the larger spinner CF's, they have the capacity to hold more volume because of larger rotor diameter but they still have the problem of increased flow rates because that is tied into the pressure that needed to spin the rotor.
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Postby coachgeo » Fri Jan 30, 2009 1:04 am

good points about size... but ... then again..... THE HOLY GRAIL

This is the rotor that will spin clean as you drive your dirty collected WVO. These smaller pump pressure powered ones seem to be the path that this will come from.

Who knows... crystal balls are not in production yet :P
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Postby 123eddie » Thu Feb 05, 2009 9:09 am

If you go to Absolute's site and look at installations the one marked Eddie is mine. I am pleased with the system and now for the first time can clean oil and fill vehicles with the moving of valves and switches and not moving hoses all over the place. The main reason I became interested in bowl centrifuges is because my wife drives a Mercedes 300 TD that she refused to have gauges, switches and and tank to stare at in the cargo area. I ended up going with an Elsbett conversion and over all it runs extremely well but I was having and issue with fats clogging the filters on a regular basis. A friend bowel centrifuged my oil slow with no heat and the results were amazing the amount of fat that was in the bowl. Before I used a Ron Schroeder heated up flow but the fats were killing the single tank. Now I run the oil heated through the centrifuged and send it to a 330 gallon tote. My two tank Dodge is filled directly from the tote and the single tank is run an extra time with out heat to pull some of the fats out.
My oil pan tests with no bubbles and I'm very interest in testing it further for pH and maybe viscosity. Coaches mention of caustic cleaners is an issue on the web while I have read of at least one wvo user destroying his i.p. and finding the oil was loaded with cleaning agents. It would be interesting to test known oil with cleaning agents, bad pH and other issues and have a lab check the raw sample and the centrifuged sample to see if the centrifuge also pulls the other undesirable stuff out.
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FREE SHIPPING!

Postby AbsoluteCentrifuge » Wed Feb 25, 2009 4:59 pm

For anyone interested, for a LIMITED TIME ONLY there will be NO shipping charges on the Turnkey Centrifuge if shipped within in the USA (A value up to ~$70, depending on where you are located in the USA).

I have also set up a Forum on my website so people can post ABSOLUTE CENTRIFUGE questions as well as past questions and answers.

www.absolutecentrifuge.com
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Re: FREE SHIPPING!

Postby David » Wed Feb 25, 2009 7:28 pm

AbsoluteCentrifuge wrote:I have also set up a Forum on my website so people can post ABSOLUTE CENTRIFUGE questions as well as past questions and answers.


After the idiotic and incessant questions you were pestered to death with by those that had no intention of ever buying your product, I would have to say you are a brave man indeed!

Then again, maybe those with too much time on their hands have now been satisfied on this issue and you can get on with more productive and practical matters on your forum.

I sincerely hope it all goes well for you. :D
_____________________

I don't give a damn about what might or could happen until a significant group of people can tell me it HAS happened to them.
Until then, it's just more endless gloom and doom Veg folk law.
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Postby HoldOnTight » Thu Mar 19, 2009 7:44 pm

David, well said! I must admit, you were able to get your point across without making a personal attack.

CoachGeo, let me ask you why you think AbsoluteCF would be able to answer your question better than Sunwizard, given that Sunwizard fully understands mistwashing (did that), fully understands CFing (strongest proponent)... Seems to me that your question isn't being answered by Sunwizard either. Perhaps for a reason, as David alludes? :roll:

I do appreciate your interest in a technical focus though...In another post, Sunwizard says, "My testing shows if you get out all the water, it also removes soaps, salts, acids, bases. If the trouble was caused by those (contaminants) in your stories, they didn't dewater enough."

AbsoluteCF will pull water out more efficiently than dieselcraft's CFs IMO. There is much more capacity to hold water and so there is no interruption of the CF nor catching of water in the bowl during shutdown/cleaning events, which could be botched. Anybody who has used a DCCF can relate...hence we have the question... AbsoluteCF is more foolproof...perfect for you Coach! :o
Late 99 Ford F-250, Designed and installed at home, 30 kMi on VO. WVO temp at solenoid valve is 185-195+F, winter-summer.
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Automated CF & Heater: Parts List & Assembly Instruc

Postby AbsoluteCentrifuge » Sun Mar 22, 2009 1:13 pm

(This is for people who would like to make their waste oil cleaning automated so when the selected processing time expires the centrifuge, heater, and oil flow are all shut off simultaneously)
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Heater Assembly Instructions:
This heater assembly plumbs into the merchant coupling located in the back of the centrifuge and will vertically hang lower than the installed centrifuge, please take this into account when designing your centrifuge installation.

Plug the dial timer directly into the wall socket (or into an extension cord plugged directly into the wall socket) and plug the power strip directly into the dial timer. The centrifuge, heater, and solenoid must be plugged directly into this power strip which will be controlled by the dial timer. This configuration will allow you to set the timer to any length of time (e.g. 2 hours) in which the centrifuge, heater, and oil flow (solenoid) will be fully operational, once this period of time elapses the dial timer will simultaneously shut off the centrifuge, heater and solenoid. This process ensures that the centrifuge and the heater will not contribute to unnecessary energy consumption, while turning off the solenoid will eliminate dirty oil from flowing into the non-operating centrifuge.

To wire the solenoid for operation, connect the 6 foot extension cord (HOT, NEUTRAL, and GROUND wires) to the corresponding receptors on the DIN Coil of the solenoid by following the provided solenoid wiring directions.

(*Liquid Teflon pipe sealant should be used on all connecting threads.) Thread the 10 inch pipe into one end of the reducer tee, and the hex bushing into the opposite end. Then thread the hot water heating element into the hex bushing making sure that the heater element does not rest against the inside wall of the pipe, if so, remove and carefully bend the heater element accordingly. Next, thread the reducing coupler onto the opposite end of the pipe and then thread the street elbow into the top of the reducing coupler. While the heater is not connected to the centrifuge; wrap the pipe, tee, and coupling with the pipe insulation tape so that it has a double layer of insulation. After the heater is insulated cut off the female plug end of the other 6 foot extension cord, strip the two wires, and crimp a pair of ring terminals to the ends of these two wires. Connect each ring terminal to different posts located on the end of the heater element (it does not matter which post the HOT or NEUTRAL wire is connected to). It is this wire that is connected to the heater element that will also plug into the power strip. In order to connect the heater to the centrifuge you must thread one of the pipe nipples into the elbow then thread the other into the centrifuge with the pipe union connecting the two of them. Once the heater is connected to the centrifuge, thread the ball valve (provided with the purchase of the centrifuge) into the ½ inch end of the reducer tee. Now it is time to plumb the Feeder Tank hose (or PVC) to the heater, making sure the solenoid is plumbed somewhere in-between the Feeder Tank and the heater (this ensures that the oil flow is eliminated when the power is shut off). We recommend using a gate valve either upstream or downstream from the heater in order to adjust the flow rate into the centrifuge. A flow rate of ~10 gallons/hour will equal a processing temperature of ~150°F (if starting from an ambient temperature of ~65°F). To determine the processing temperature of the oil a candy thermometer can be used to check the temperature of the oil exiting the centrifuge (this must be done after the centrifuge has been running for ~10 minutes), this oil is approximately 10-15°F lower than the oil entering the centrifuge. This flow rate can be accomplished by referring to the flow rate table in the centrifuge instruction manual, along with a measuring cup and a stop watch (to measure the amount of oil coming out of the centrifuge over a given period of time), and by adjusting the gate valve accordingly. A quick reminder, always start the centrifuge with the ball valve in the closed position until the centrifuge reaches full operational speed (~5 seconds) then proceed to open the ball valve. Follow these steps any time you turn on the centrifuge to process oil, even if you are trying to determine flow rate. If the centrifuge, heater, and solenoid have been shut off automatically by the dial timer, make sure you close the ball valve before starting the centrifuge the next time you process a batch of waste oil.

For More Information Please Visit: http://www.absolutecentrifuge.com/installation.aspx
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This is what the heater looks like partially assembled (minus the pipe union and the two short nipples on either side of the union connecting the heater to the centrifuge) also not plumbed to the centrifuge or the Feeder Tank. There is one small inconsistency, a regular tee was used which is why a hex bushing was utilized in order to plumb the Feeder Tank to the heater (it is cheaper to use a reducer tee than to use a regular tee + an additional hex bushing).
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This is what the heater looks like when insulated and plumbed to centrifuge. The heater is installed vertically and hangs lower than the centrifuge allowing the heater element housed in the 10 inch pipe to remain constantly surrounded by oil, this ensures that the heater element does not overheat and burn out. The gate valve is plumbed in-between the centrifuge and the heater (somewhat visible behind the white PVC pipe) to allow the user to adjust the flow rate. The installation is slightly different from what is capable with the components in the “Parts List” but there were space limitations so a slightly modified version was necessary.
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