Sunwizard design in Ford IDI

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Sunwizard design in Ford IDI

Postby wydra » Fri May 29, 2009 12:22 pm

Hi, currently I have a plantdrive 2 tank set up that I have been running for about 2 years now with only some minor issues.

I am thinking I want to sell off my parts and go with the same set up Sunwizard is using in his dodge. I have 92 Ford non powerstroke with vormax coolant heated filter, 16 FPHE HOH then 26 FPHE (2) 3 port hydroforce valves set up for looped on WVO then finally vegtherm mega. I can not seem to get above 160 F without the vegtherm unless I am WOT up a hill in the middle of summer on a 95 degree day. This truck simply will not warm up. I replaced the thermostat, unfortunately the hottest one they make is 190.

Is it possible to run manual valves keep the stock lift pump and have both diesel and WVO filters under pressure instead of vaccum like how they are plumbed currently? My mechanical OEM fuel pump is located down low in the front of the motor near the radiator. I do not see how I can have a manual valve in between the filters and the lift pump up front and have it reach the inside of the cab?

Thanks,
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Re: Sunwizard design in Ford IDI

Postby SunWizard » Fri May 29, 2009 2:21 pm

wydra wrote:I can not seem to get above 160 F without the vegtherm unless I am WOT up a hill in the middle of summer on a 95 degree day. This truck simply will not warm up. I replaced the thermostat, unfortunately the hottest one they make is 190.

On mine the VO is always within 10F of my coolant temp, you don't say what your coolant temp is. You have almost double the FPHE I have so you must have a guage or flow problem.
Are you tapped into the coolant where it feeds the heater core? Do you have a valve to shut off the flow to the heater and make more go through the VO side? Maybe the order of your flow of coolant is wrong?
Is it possible to run manual valves keep the stock lift pump and have both diesel and WVO filters under pressure instead of vaccum like how they are plumbed currently?

The vormax is designed for suction only. You would need a different VO filter head, but they are cheap <$20.
My mechanical OEM fuel pump is located down low in the front of the motor near the radiator. I do not see how I can have a manual valve in between the filters and the lift pump up front and have it reach the inside of the cab?

Insulated hoses. Or a rod through the firewall where you turn a knob and it turns the valve up front. Most don't share that pump with VO since its not a strong one like the Cummins.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
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Postby wydra » Fri May 29, 2009 2:40 pm

On mine the VO is always within 10F of my coolant temp, you don't say what your coolant temp is. You have almost double the FPHE I have so you must have a guage or flow problem.

Pretty sure the gauge works. It seems to be around the same spot as all the other for IDI's I have seen. I do not know the exact temp of the coolant since the only coolant gauge I have is is the the stock OEM which does not give an exact read out. I do have a thermal couple hooked up on TOP of my FPHE and it reads around 140 (however this is just the top metal of the FPHE and not the coolant itself. It also has the wind factor. I use it as general reference.

Are you tapped into the coolant where it feeds the heater core?

Yes.

o you have a valve to shut off the flow to the heater and make more go through the VO side?

No. I do have the 26 FPHE on it's own coolant loop. after I did that I seemed to gain some heat to it.

I have also added a Mercedes Benz coolant pump which has also helped out some.

I am for the most part happy with my veg temp it is consistently above 160 with the vegtherm. The reason why I want to switch is because someone is giving me a brand new 90 gallon L shaped steel tank with tool box that has never been used. It would replace the POS one I have now and I thought while i got a new tank why not move my veg filter from the back of my truck where it takes up space and makes a mess to the engine bay or under the truck. I also would like to make it all mechanical with valves and heat so it is more redundent and bombproof.

he vormax is designed for suction only. You would need a different VO filter head, but they are cheap <$20.

True. I was going to sell my hydroforce valves and vormax and get the filter and head from JME sales same as you. the Racor elements for the vormax are like 35 dollars each!
Insulated hoses. Or a rod through the firewall where you turn a knob and it turns the valve up front

It seems like by running hose back and forth from filters and in between the lift pump I would create a lot of excess tubing because the valves would be located up above the tranny near the cab of the truck when the lift pump is all the way upfront in the engine bay. a lot of back and forth.

Most don't share that pump with VO since its not a strong one like the Cummins.

I agree it is nothing compared to the cummins pump but so far it has not done to bad. 30k plus on veggie and and bio in two years so far. It is really my only option though if i wanted to go with your design. The other route would involve two electrical pumps like FASS or Raptor but that adds cost, electronics to a mechanical NA truck. It would also probably mean I would have to do away with the manual valves. I would also like the idea of pressure side filter instead of vacuum since I believe I am getting low fuel pressure since I have switched to vaccumm although I can not confirm it since I have not yet installed my fuel pressure gauge which I plan to do.

Now that I think about it maybe I should just stay with what I got?
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Postby SunWizard » Fri May 29, 2009 3:58 pm

If its working fine, might as well keep it. If something fails, that might be a good time to rework it.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
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Re: Sunwizard design in Ford IDI

Postby biovindiesel » Sat May 30, 2009 10:52 am

wydra wrote:I do not see how I can have a manual valve in between the filters and the lift pump up front and have it reach the inside of the cab?


These look pretty cool. They would fit your puzzle piece.

Image
~Cv
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Postby jburke » Mon Jun 01, 2009 10:03 am

I have a '92 Ford F-250 too. It's stock temp. gauge doesn't work either.
Using on eof those small infa-red thermometers, I usally measure 195-200*F at the engine block. And like Sun, about 10*F less at the fuel filter and i.p. I have a single 11-plate FPHE.

Your truck engine should be at 200*F climbing a hill on a 95*F day.
But you have to start with the engine. If possible , block flow to the fphe's when you measure the engine temp. to prevent them from acting like radiators.
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Postby wydra » Mon Jun 01, 2009 8:28 pm

Thanks, I am thinking about going with a manual valve to switch between tanks and then keep my two hydroforce valves for loop, return and selecting between diesel and WVO filters. This would allow me to have both filters under pressure instead of vacuum.
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Postby mankypro » Thu Jun 04, 2009 9:59 pm

My 6.9l IDI easily gets up in the 190F range. Right now it's got a Artic Fox in the waste oil tank, a 26 plate FPHE in the engine bay, followed by a Vegtherm Mega.

I'm about to replumb it to a classic setup with a HIH as well.

I pull my FPHE coolant from the passenger side block (heater core side) and my Artic Fox coolant and future HIH from the driver's side block.

I return the coolant on that side to the water pump on top. Something must be wrong with your coolant routing?
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Postby hheynow » Fri Jun 05, 2009 11:23 pm

mankypro wrote: Something must be wrong with your coolant routing?


Manky doesn't that sentence sure sound familiar? Deja vu all over again! :D
FOR SALE: 1997 Ford F-350 7.3L PSD - Plant Drive kit
1984 Mercedes Euro 300D NA - Custom two tank
Running on used plant oil and biodiesel since May 2006
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Postby wydra » Sun Jun 07, 2009 6:32 pm

Pretty sure there is nothing wrong with the routing of the coolant I tested the line to make sure it was the pressure side I was tapping into. I put the 26 FPHE on it's own loop, it then goes back HOH to heated filter with another 16 FPHE to heat the fuel even more pre filter and HOH, I then added a Mercedes Benz coolant pump and it also has a hotfox.

I think what I am going to change is switching to TIH from the new tank I am installing plus a third manual valve to switch between tanks and then plumb it so both VO and D2 filters are under pressure instead of vacuum and the 26 fphe is in loop and close pre ip.

Right now my system works flawless but I would prefer a pressure instead of a vacuum system. I get great 170 and above temps with the vegtherm mega. Just want to make the system better :D
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Postby mankypro » Sun Jun 07, 2009 9:54 pm

I should mention that I have a new aluminum radiator...and my engine has about 100k on it.
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Postby 3lr » Fri Jun 12, 2009 2:26 am

I can not seem to get above 160 F


i have an 91 f-350 box van (u-haul), unloaded criusing on the flats
it runs too cool and the constantly-on fan clutch is one of the culprits, large radiator and huge/flat frontal area force humongous amounts of air
through radiator. my early 80's benzes share the same problem with fanclutch, except for my 300TD which' fan clutch is shot and it will actually allow it to run at proper operating temps...

planning on replacing the crank driven fan with one or more electric fans and making sure thermostat which actuates fan(s) is matched to the opening temp of coolant flow thermostat and blocking the radiator selectively to tune ECT. also blocking airflow/insulating the IP and injector lines will help!

but before i get started i have years of neglect and ABUSE from previous owner to overcome...

do you have pictures of your conversion?

john
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Postby roverhybrids » Fri Jun 12, 2009 1:38 pm

what ID hoses are you using on your coolant loop?
2004.5 Dodge w/ 2 tank VO conversion
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