my dieselcraft oc-20 setup

Collecting, filtering and dewatering of WVO SVO vegetable oil. For Biodiesel producers too.

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my dieselcraft oc-20 setup

Postby bellavesus » Fri Dec 04, 2009 9:52 pm

so i purchased the centrifuge back in august 2007, and havent had the time to hook it up until now! i started out with an oversized gear pump(it was l 11gpm) and an undersized motor(1/8 hp from a washing machine or somethng) but i upgraded to a 1/2 hp 1725 motor and a 2gpm gear pump from northern tool. i have followed sunwizards progress now for 3 years, it was why i bought the DC in the first place. i have two hot water heater elements, and the pump, wired into a breaker box with 2 20 amp breakers and on individual switches. my barrel is tilted, the pump and motor sit under the barrel which creates a rather small footprint as my plan is to take this cross country in a trailer. i have noticed, however, that my CF has a 1/4" input fitting, which if i were to unscrew it, it would be 1/2" ORB size. this seems smaller than the others on this forum, is that right? from the CF is the pressure gauge, then the pressure relief valve, then out of the barrel, to the top element, down to the bottom element, then under to the pump and up to the bottom of the barrel completing the circle. i have the pressure guage set to 90 psi, but when i start the motor, it creates more pressure than the valve can release all at once, so i toggle it onoffonofff to build the pressure slowly so it has time to catch up. all of this leading up to very clean and hot oil, but one this has started happening, which is that the inner rotor o ring has become deformed, and continues to blow out. i am wondering if the transition from 1/2" pipe (it is 3/4" from bottom of barrel through pump then to 1 1/4" up to the top of the barrel, then to 1/2" through the barrel to the gauge) to 1/4" at the CF creates a spike in pressure that since it is after the gauge , i cannot see and has caused the rotor to now become deformed. does anyone else have this size opening on their CF? i am wondering how to fix this, as i dont want to have to buy more than one replacement rotor now. thanks in advance to all who have gone before me, i really appreciate your efforts and knowledge- and especially your willingness to share your trials and tribulations..
~~~ill get some photos to share soon!
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89 c223 turbo diesel trooper, transplant!
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Postby SunWizard » Sat Dec 05, 2009 2:11 pm

Its not the size of the CF inlet. Yes they went smaller, that would make no difference in pressure spikes in the CF. What you should do is open a valve to bypass the CF at startup, then slowly close that valve until you hit 90psi.

You can stop the bottom o-ring from blowing out by putting an o-ring and then a flat washer under the nut on the top of the rotor. Then you don't need another rotor.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
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Postby bellavesus » Tue Dec 08, 2009 9:14 pm

thanks SW, i had a ball valve there before i put in the pressure relief valve. maybe ill go back to it...but i actually has used two washers on the rotor, cause its stretched out i guess, but i ordered one -maybe i should cancel the order because after i added the washers, it works wonderfully! anyways, is your barrel insulated? it is getting cold, and i am heading on a cross country journey with the centrifuge in a trailer i am towing behind me. i have a 500 watt wand heater, but everything runs on AC...one of my hydraforce valves is malfunctioning, i need to switch it out. its the return, and it filled my diesel tank with oil, which promptly got too cold to run. ended up draining the tank on the side of the road into a small cubie so we could make it back. i need to put a check valve for one way return fluid operation because i have the oil return tapped into right after the fuel assist pump and i think the pump is pushing fuel back up it.
86 TD trooper, 4JB1TC WVO system installed!
89 c223 turbo diesel trooper, transplant!
bellavesus
 
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