Vegetable Oil SVO WVO waste cooking oil as biofuel

[MikeGoodman59]

The gauge is low. Research says that that could be swapped leads off sensors by heater supply from head, but still, not feeling or measuring heat (with laser gun). Not getting much heat from heater/defrost.

Gauge is properly installed AutoMeter. Thinking of taking out sensor and dropping in cup of hot oil.

Have bought new thermostat but went up to 192F from factory 180. Local good-guy shop (Foreign Accents, Greensboro) indicates could put stress on existing hoses, but willing to run it and see.

Thermostat is simple swap from below water pump. Is that right? Just the gaskets, no PERMATEX, right?

[SunWizard]

It probably is the tstat, they go bad often. At least they are very easy to replace.

[MikeGoodman59]

Thanks! I changed it. Easy. Got it from a reliable foreign parts place (B&M - High Point). Used a 192F T-stat.

Interesting: I noticed that the cover seated metal-to-metal without any "feel of crush" on the new gasket. There was weeping from the bolts, just enough to know that something wasn't right.

Took it apart. Turns out the new gasket was 0.10" and the old gasket was a little over 0.16" ... didn't want to but I put it back with the old gasket. That was enough to seal it. And the gauge is about at 1/2 up the white marks. Much warmer hoses.

Questions on why not getting gauge to read to follow. Thanks Sun!

[MikeGoodman59]

[First, any reason why POSTING REPLY leaves Subject empty?}

The WVO temp reading is still running low, at least by the AutoMeter gauge. It's installed just like on my MB, which reads properly. The vehicle seems to run fine after reaching temp but don't want to stress the IP or injectors with low temp.

I know that the sensor works because I dipped it out in a cup of hot water and it read 150F. Sensor is in the 1/2-inch threaded fitting that comes with the gauge - it doesn't extend past the fitting, but I know it's full.

[The smaller threaded fitting doesn't appear to be 3/8 NPT because it spins in but only the first 2-3 threads seat. Thinking of making a block and just threading it for the sensor so it is immersed – any thoughts?]

Anyway, it's in 1/2 black iron T. Wrapped in insulation.

I'll send pics but here's the system:

A) Tank is Blitz 15-gal tank in tool box in bed. Going to "Great Stuff"
B) Tank heated by 12- to 14-inch 4-pass tranny cooler.
C) Supply heat is 5/8-inch hose under hood to 1/2-inch copper lines (insulated)
C) Fuel pumped to 86W heater Golden Fuels elect heater to RACOR - insulated.
D) 3/8-inch fuel hose through bottom of box, under bed (through ~2-inch anti-chafe hose) with 3/8 hose shoved through 3/4 rubber hose.
E) WCR FPHE FPN3x8-14 brazed nickel-brazed - unit insulated with 1-inch of closed-cell foam on all but bottom - properly routed for counter flow
F) 6-port Pollack with closed-loop WVO return.
G) VegTherm STD mounted on hard fuel lines with 7-inches SAE 30R9 fuel hose @ in/out
H) VegSensor.
I) AutoMeter "boost" (5 psi dieslel / 10 psi WVO) and water temp (100-250) gauges

One thing I just this second thought of is that the heat to both the tank and the FPHE are T'd off vs. going first to FPHE and then the tank. What made me think of this is that I did an Arctic Fox Trendsetter in the MB differntly, going first to the Trendsetter and then my tank in trunk, which is what AF said to do. Is that limiting heat to 132F at FPHE?

I thought about VT Mega but Craig said I didn't need. I didn't think I needed, either.

Everything is as short a run as possible with all but shortest loops insulated, but I do have plans for those.

Temp at FPHE outlet is 132F at outlet by laser-reading after a hard run and then quick check but banjo bolt on IP inlet feels cool. (Don't have reading).

Temps on injector nuts at idle will around 140F (+) in my garage w/25F ambient - each cylinder slightly different, but that's conservative.

VegSensor kicks off VegTherm after a few minutes.

Why is my new gauge that's been checked out not reading when it's installed just like in MB? And when the VegSensor is kicking off from heat?

[SunWizard]

[First, any reason why POSTING REPLY leaves Subject empty?

It filled it in for me. Probably empty when you replied to my post above with no subject.

Sensor is in the 1/2-inch threaded fitting that comes with the gauge - it doesn't extend past the fitting, but I know it's full.

That sounds bad, the sensor should extend to be in the middle of the flow.

One thing I just this second thought of is that the heat to both the tank and the FPHE are T'd off vs. going first to FPHE and then the tank. Is that limiting heat to 132F at FPHE?

It could be, you could add a balancing valve to adjust less flow to the tank. Or a pump to increase FPHE flow. I prefer no tee, so the full hottest flow goes to FPHE, then TiH, then tank. My VO exiting the FPHE is always within 10F of the coolant temp.

[MikeGoodman59]

Quote: It filled it in for me.

I am manually filling in. Have tried with both IE6 and Mozilla. No big deal.

Quote: That sounds bad, the sensor should extend to be in the middle of the flow.

I agree, but it works on the MB ... will look that vehicle over again and maybe come up with a block to put the sensor in the flow.

Quote: It could be, you could add a balancing valve to adjust less flow to the tank. Or a pump to increase FPHE flow. I prefer no tee, so the full hottest flow goes to FPHE, then TiH, then tank. My VO exiting the FPHE is always within 10F of the coolant temp.

I may rerun the coolant or add an orifice so more flow goes to FPHE and so it's close to the 10F differential. It's pretty tight but I'll find something. I don't have anything heating the flow to under the vehicle, and that's bad, but it's really tight.

The MB has "hose on hose" from Greasel. My buddy did a conversion on a Rabbit and the separate copper lines is what he used but he just did it to "prove" that he could and never really ran the vehicle.

The fuel is between the copper but theya re insulated so it's not offering any heat. I was just hoping the double hose insulation (not HIH) would carry the heat for what is about a 6-foot run underenat.

Maybe I need to go HIH with "to" and the remaining copper can return.
??? What size HIH would you recommend if I go that way. 3/8-inch? Any supplier you recommend?

Also, so I am understood, I am only measuring the brass fitting off the outlet of the FPHE, not the actual fluid. Still, I don't see a 55-60F difference.

Thanks for helping out.

[SunWizard]

What size HIH would you recommend if I go that way. 3/8-inch? Any supplier you recommend?

I like 3/8 OD aluminum inside 5/8 or 3/4" coolant hose. Make the ends yourself out of standard brass compression fittings which you drill out a tiny amount so the 3/8 tube can fit through. All the parts are available from www.mcmaster.com, part#s are listed in my Dodge conversion thread in this section.

[MikeGoodman59]

Thanks. I'll get crackin' on that.

[MikeGoodman59]

Sun ... I've got the tubing and have settled on 3/4 hose. I've fitted up the ends, but some questions. I'll start with the meaty one:

1) I can get the engine end fitted up. The difficulty will be ... from jack stands ... safely bending that last turn up and through the bed without crimping.

Plan A - just do it ... not a problem?
Plan B - find a lift ... even at a shop
Plan C - terminate after the straight portion and run the last 3 feet with hose.

Risks/Considerations:

Plan A - I kink the tube and buy more.
Plan B - free if I get the school's lift or 2 hours in a shop at $80/hour but "whole".
Plan C - DIY but lose the last 3 feet (15-20%) of run, (but the coolest portion).

2) I'm using 5/8 barb from the engine but gray 1/2 MPT X 3/4 PVC barbs because all brass were "garden hose" thread. I've used pipe sealant and it looks good. Any concerns with PVC?

3A) Lots of exposed hose and one copper line (the one I'm removing) already has a rock ding. I'm going to run the under portion through 1.25 PVC. (1" is too tight) and use 45's and 90's to make the turns. Then air shocks. Any thoughts?

3B) The other option is to run hose to PVC and back to hose but a lot of potential leaks. You agree?

As always, thanks!

[SunWizard]

Plan A - just do it ... not a problem?

Yes its very easy to bend if you got the right kind of tube.

2) I'm using 5/8 barb from the engine but gray 1/2 MPT X 3/4 PVC barbs because all brass were "garden hose" thread. I've used pipe sealant and it looks good. Any concerns with PVC?

PVC is bad since it can't handle the temps of hot coolant and last for very long.

3B) The other option is to run hose to PVC and back to hose but a lot of potential leaks. You agree?

Yes, there is nothing wrong with hose.

[MikeGoodman59]

Hey, I was worried about nothing. Took my time, did a thorough job. Just needed 5-minutes of my son's time to fish it up the engine.

As for the PVC ... too late, but that's a quick fix. I just read that the max temp for PVC is 140 ... I'll find something.

Wound up being 13-feet of HIH ... that should help.

Stoked! Thanks!