how to wire a 220 volt water heater element to run on 110v

Collecting, filtering and dewatering of WVO SVO vegetable oil. For Biodiesel producers too.

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how to wire a 220 volt water heater element to run on 110v

Postby lionheart3 » Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:08 am

i will soon have a centrifuge and 2 30 gallon barrels and plan to build a setup like sunwizard's
however i notice he uses 220 volt water heater elements wired at 110 volts.
how do i do this safely? where would the ground wire go?
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Re: how to wire a 220 volt water heater element to run on 11

Postby David » Tue Feb 23, 2010 1:40 am

lionheart3 wrote:how do i do this safely?


Hire a qualified person to do it for you and make sure the rest of the electrics is up to scratch while they are at it.
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Re: how to wire a 220 volt water heater element to run on 11

Postby SunWizard » Tue Feb 23, 2010 4:50 pm

David wrote:
lionheart3 wrote:how do i do this safely?


Hire a qualified person to do it for you and make sure the rest of the electrics is up to scratch while they are at it.

I agree.
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Postby mankypro » Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:50 pm

I'm doing this as well.

1-1/4" 4' black iron pipe with 1-1/4" t's at the ends with two 4500w 220v elements screwed into either side via 1" reducing shims. Simply wire the +/- the same way you would on a 110v system. Then use the heaviest gauge extension cords you can find to power them, usually 12 gauge - and very expensive. I'd plug into a 40a circuit with a GFCI outlet. This year when I start processing again (I'm like a week away from 50F overnight here in high country) I'll be doing it outside to avoid any flipping chance of fire - part of the reason I moved my heaters into a pipe away from anything flammable - the idea of fire freaks me out.
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Heaters

Postby harrisonm3 » Sat Jul 24, 2010 10:45 am

If you put the heaters on the non-pressure side you don't have to worry about the washers and leaks.

That being said I'm sure there is a good reason everyone put the heaters on the pressure side.
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Re: Heaters

Postby SunWizard » Sat Jul 24, 2010 2:22 pm

harrisonm3 wrote:That being said I'm sure there is a good reason everyone put the heaters on the pressure side.

Yes, the biggest reason is that most pumps are run near their high temp limit even when before the heater. Also, the heater is less effective due to heat loss so the closer to the CF the better. Sealing the element is easy and costs <$1.
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Postby gypsyjake » Sun Aug 22, 2010 9:50 pm

is there or, what is the benefit of using 220volts wired to 110 over starting with 110v elements? i am looking into getting my centrifuge set up going. i am forced on-board b/c i am always away from home i.e I live in my vehicle.
thanks
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Postby SunWizard » Mon Aug 23, 2010 8:35 am

They are longer than an similar wattage 110v element, which means lower watt density, which means less chance of thermal polymerization (burning) of the VO.
From the dieselcraft thread here:
http://www.burnveg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
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81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
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Postby Luckyr » Sat Nov 06, 2010 11:16 am

SunWizard wrote:They are longer than an similar wattage 110v element, which means lower watt density, which means less chance of thermal polymerization (burning) of the VO.
From the dieselcraft thread here:
http://www.burnveg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4



So actually wiring the 220v elements to 220v would increase the risk of burning the oil? What if I had thermostats on them? I talked to my electrician friend and the people at home depot and they were concerned that under-powering an element would result in lack luster heating. The reason I ask is that I have ready access to 220v and all the parts to make it happen, but I am no expert which is why I am asking here
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Postby SunWizard » Sat Nov 06, 2010 11:35 am

Luckyr wrote:So actually wiring the 220v elements to 220v would increase the risk of burning the oil?

Yes. Guaranteed it will burn. You probably won't notice it until you take it apart and look at the element, unless it burns so much that black hard chunks come off and plug the jets in the centrifuge.
What if I had thermostats on them?

No help with burning but a good idea for safety.
I talked to my electrician friend and the people at home depot and they were concerned that under-powering an element would result in lack luster heating. The reason I ask is that I have ready access to 220v and all the parts to make it happen, but I am no expert which is why I am asking here

They know nothing about heating oil, yes it would be lackluster for heating water.
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Postby dragonfly » Mon Nov 08, 2010 1:22 am

I use a 1200 watt 220 Volt single heater with the thermostat (set to 150F) attached to the black pipe. The VO is gravity fed at 1/2 gal./min past the heater element. At that flow rate the temp will be 130F. One word of caution: make sure the heating element is COMPLETELY and ALWAYS submerged in oil when the electric is still powering the element and/or when there is no oil flowing. The thermostat will cut the power to the element. Slower flow rate raises the temp. I have a 4'x8' solar hot water heater to heat the oil and a Shurflo pump to circulate the VO.
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