VO Line Air Bleed

For discussing the modifications needed for diesel vehicles to run with 2 tank veggie oil conversions.

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VO Line Air Bleed

Postby Cumminscanuck » Mon Mar 10, 2008 7:20 pm

I plan to fit an air bleed into the VO line downstream of the filter to make filter changes a little easier to recover from. I would appreciate some suggestions as to how to achieve this in an efficient and CHEAP :wink: manner :idea:
2000 24 VALVE Quad Cab 2500 SLT. Edge Comp. 275 RV's. PDR HX 35/14 hybrid turbo. 4" Diamond Flow Exhaust. Isspro Pyro, Boost, Trans. Temp. Fuel Pressure, Gauges. Turbo Master. Silicone Boot Kit. FASS. BHAF. Running on SVO.
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Postby Welder » Tue Mar 11, 2008 5:39 am

Install a brass hosebarb "T" fitting into the line with the vertical stem of the T pointing upwards. Shove a 2 or 3 inch chunk of clear high temp tubing onto the vertical hosebarb. Add a small ball valve to the top of the clear tubing. Periodically let the air out of the system by opening the ball valve and giving your electric lift pump a short shot of power (just enough to displace the air).
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another approach

Postby HoldOnTight » Tue Mar 11, 2008 9:02 pm

What you want is to get a flow going so the air is washed out. So this approach is strictly for pulling out air when you choose to do so, and not a passive approach like the previous post. All it takes is a T in the fuel line with a valve on 90 deg. side, again, facing up is better. With your fuel pump on, you simply open the valve and feed the output of the valve via a hose to a catch can until the bubbles stop coming out. Then close your valve. I do something like this, but I use a solenoid which allows me to purge air back to the tank, and I don't even need to pop the hood. Placement of your valve is important and where you put it will determine what "features" you can get out of it. Good luck.
Late 99 Ford F-250, Designed and installed at home, 30 kMi on VO. WVO temp at solenoid valve is 185-195+F, winter-summer.
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Postby coachgeo » Tue Mar 11, 2008 9:21 pm

Below is theoretical!!!

Stare at your engine bay and plan a route to run an additional return to your tank. Figure out how you can make this have a HIGH spot in the lines route. Should be the HIGHEST SPOT of all fuel lines. .... Now... go to your cheapozone auto parts store and look at the three barbed inline fuel filters. Third barb is intened to be an vapor bleed for gasser cars, but you will use it as an air bleed. For gassers this is to help bleed off vaporized gas due to heat conditions and they are installed in vehicles to prevent vapor lock.

They are in different shapes and mount configurations. Go back to your car and stare at it again. Go back to the store and pick the best one for you senario. Two hose barbs are for sending fuel thru the filter on the way to the IP, the third is an air/vapor bleed you plumb back to the tank. yes a small amount of fuel will go back with the air so keep that in mind.

This is much how the MB design is except this bleed mechanism is built into the top of the fuel filter. It's a hollow banjo bolt that bleeds air OUT of the top of the fuel filter and sends it back to the tank.
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Re: another approach

Postby Welder » Thu Mar 13, 2008 5:40 am

HoldOnTight wrote:What you want is to get a flow going so the air is washed out. So this approach is strictly for pulling out air when you choose to do so, and not a passive approach like the previous post. All it takes is a T in the fuel line with a valve on 90 deg. side, again, facing up is better. With your fuel pump on, you simply open the valve and feed the output of the valve via a hose to a catch can until the bubbles stop coming out. Then close your valve. I do something like this, but I use a solenoid which allows me to purge air back to the tank, and I don't even need to pop the hood. Placement of your valve is important and where you put it will determine what "features" you can get out of it. Good luck.


Passive approach? What are you talking about. You described the same thing I described. Maybe your inverted T fitting is different than mine...
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