Coolant not flowing

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Coolant not flowing

Postby zaca33 » Fri Jul 16, 2010 8:54 am

Hi guys-

I'm close! My (hopefully) last issue is that I can't seem to get the coolant to flow from where I teed it coming off the engine through the fphe and onwards. I feel that there is just a really big air bubble sitting in there, but I tried bleeding it by disconnecting one of the hoses and running the engine, but not luck. The radiator is full, so no enough coolant isn't the problem. Do y'all have any tips on getting it flowing?

Thanks
1979 W123 Mercedes 300D body and 300TD engine
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Postby SunWizard » Fri Jul 16, 2010 9:17 am

Did you tee before the monovalve? It cuts off the flow in the heater loop, try turning the heater on full. There is probably a small electric coolant pump in the loop, make sure its working and on and you are teed so its helping your flow.

You could hook a garden hose to the loop and use pressure to force out any air bubble.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
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Postby John Galt » Fri Jul 16, 2010 1:47 pm

I can't seem to get the coolant to flow from where I teed it coming off the engine through the fphe and onwards.
Too much flow resistance. The problem is caused by the 'onwards' circuit. Return the flow from the FPHE directly to the suction side of the coolant pump. Use another parallel coolant loop for everything else in the VO heating system. Be sure that you're tapping into the coolant flow where it comes off the engine block.
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Postby zaca33 » Fri Jul 16, 2010 4:31 pm

Sorry for my ignorance, but I have been unable to find this elsewhere. In this: http://www.frybrid.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3775&d=1238722155 photo the aux. pump is the squarish one and the mono-valve is the round one correct? And I want to "t" the return coolant line before the mono-valve and the pump right?
1979 W123 Mercedes 300D body and 300TD engine
zaca33
 
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Jun 01, 2010 5:21 am

Postby zaca33 » Fri Jul 16, 2010 4:50 pm

I think I may also put a valve in to open/close the line to the cab heater like in Sun's conversion. I was a little concerned about closing off the coolant loop to the trans., but thats completely separate from the engine loop right? Would it work just as well to run all the veg stuff in series rather than parallel. I know I may not get as much heat in the winter, but faster would heat up the veg faster.
1979 W123 Mercedes 300D body and 300TD engine
zaca33
 
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Jun 01, 2010 5:21 am

Postby John Galt » Fri Jul 16, 2010 9:23 pm

Would it work just as well to run all the veg stuff in series rather than parallel.

No
faster would heat up the veg faster.

No, coolant won't flow faster in series, it will flow slower. Higher resistance, slower flow.

But hey, I'm just a mechanical engineer who works with heating systems, so you might find other sources more credible. Image
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Postby SunWizard » Sat Jul 17, 2010 12:40 pm

zaca33 wrote:Sorry for my ignorance, but I have been unable to find this elsewhere. In this: http://www.frybrid.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3775&d=1238722155 photo the aux. pump is the squarish one and the mono-valve is the round one correct?

No, the monovalve has a square plate on one end where the electrical connector is. I don't see both on that pic.
And I want to "t" the return coolant line before the mono-valve and the pump right?

No. You want the coolant pump in your loop to increase flow, but not the monovalve since it blocks all flow.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
SunWizard
Site Admin
 
Posts: 1723
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:53 pm
Location: N. Colorado

Postby SunWizard » Sat Jul 17, 2010 12:46 pm

zaca33 wrote:I think I may also put a valve in to open/close the line to the cab heater like in Sun's conversion.

Not needed if yours has a monovalve since thats what it does. You need a shop manual which you can get at any auto parts store.
I was a little concerned about closing off the coolant loop to the trans., but thats completely separate from the engine loop right?

Correct.
Would it work just as well to run all the veg stuff in series rather than parallel.

No.
I know I may not get as much heat in the winter, but faster would heat up the veg faster.

No, John is right its not faster flow or faster heat if that's what you mean.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
SunWizard
Site Admin
 
Posts: 1723
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:53 pm
Location: N. Colorado


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