W210, 300TD & Rapeseed blend

Single Tank WVO systems and blending SVO WVO to thin it.

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W210, 300TD & Rapeseed blend

Postby Bones » Sun Nov 21, 2010 8:54 am

Just on the last stages of a major winter overhaul before putting her back on the road.

The engine is in superb shape but i must report back one or two surprises after running a low percentage blend of diesel/rapeseed oil.

The oil had been leaking over time from the clear plastic pipes at the joints and in some case squirting over adjacent hoses ect..

Looking up under the engine everything had a sticky coating of oil with droplets hanging off the bottom of most components.

Removing this gunge wasn't easy as the droplet was soft but it left a hardish skin, what worried me was the amount of oxidisation that had occurred at a relatively low blend of new oil.

The OM606 is prone to ring gumming and looking at this I can see why, fortunately the C250D (similar engine but non turbo) is twin tank and doesn't seem to suffer this at all.

I have left some of the parts to soak overnight in biodiesel before refitting.
David

1994 Merc C250D -110k dino, 22k miles with t/tank - now on wvo
1998 Merc 300TD - 89k dino, 5k blend SVO garaged for winter

And remember ~

"if you drive a car fast enough it will last you a lifetime"
Bones
 
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Location: UK

Postby John Galt » Sun Nov 21, 2010 6:31 pm

Removing this gunge wasn't easy as the droplet was soft but it left a hardish skin, what worried me was the amount of oxidisation that had occurred at a relatively low blend of new oil.
good undercoating
The oil had been leaking over time from the clear plastic pipes at the joints

Best fuel hose I'e found is Parker 801
http://www.parker.com
John Galt
 
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Location: Coldest North America

Postby Bones » Tue Nov 23, 2010 12:00 pm

Thanks John,

I think the reason it's squirting out the seals is because of the low viscosity v high fuel rate, it simple can't get through the pipes when cold.

I recently changed my return valve and you would be astounded at just how small the hole is, it's a wonder it works at all without blowing the pipes off altogether.

Not sure if you can see the hole in this pic but you get the idea.

Image
David

1994 Merc C250D -110k dino, 22k miles with t/tank - now on wvo
1998 Merc 300TD - 89k dino, 5k blend SVO garaged for winter

And remember ~

"if you drive a car fast enough it will last you a lifetime"
Bones
 
Posts: 35
Joined: Mon Sep 14, 2009 5:27 pm
Location: UK

Postby Bones » Wed Dec 01, 2010 4:01 pm

Isn't anyone else surprised at this?

I reckon my OM605 sends back around 3 litres on tick over back to the tank, how it would manage this on cold wvo I have no idea.
David

1994 Merc C250D -110k dino, 22k miles with t/tank - now on wvo
1998 Merc 300TD - 89k dino, 5k blend SVO garaged for winter

And remember ~

"if you drive a car fast enough it will last you a lifetime"
Bones
 
Posts: 35
Joined: Mon Sep 14, 2009 5:27 pm
Location: UK

Postby mike_belben » Thu Dec 02, 2010 8:22 am

i would positively drill it out to a more reasonable size. probably immeasurable, but it would reduce pumping friction on any mechanical pump vehicle.
mike_belben
 
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Postby Bones » Thu Dec 02, 2010 9:18 am

I don't think it's possible to open it up without the pump pressure dropping, there's a tiny valve regulating the flow (see here for details)http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/engine/98417-wanted-606-turbo-lift-pump-i-need-know-how-does-work-ip-3.html

I am pretty sure the engine would fail to start.

The thing is most MB's that we are talking about are fitted with one of these valves, I am amazed the pressure doesn't build up and blow the pipes clean off :o
David

1994 Merc C250D -110k dino, 22k miles with t/tank - now on wvo
1998 Merc 300TD - 89k dino, 5k blend SVO garaged for winter

And remember ~

"if you drive a car fast enough it will last you a lifetime"
Bones
 
Posts: 35
Joined: Mon Sep 14, 2009 5:27 pm
Location: UK

Postby mike_belben » Thu Dec 02, 2010 5:38 pm

ahh, i see. i was thinking it was just a 'banjo bolt' instead of an overflow valve.
mike_belben
 
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