new install for a 1998 dodge cummins 12valve - prep

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new install for a 1998 dodge cummins 12valve - prep

Postby 88tlc » Sun Dec 05, 2010 12:12 am

i have had a dodge cummins 1996 with a frybrid system (a 2 valve system, with vo return line). it has worked pretty well, until for the last year i have had to struggle with low fuel pressure at the IP, while on VO. I started with a new filter and it would help slightly. I then committed to updating the system to rebuild the system with AN plumbing, and add a third valve, so that i could push fuel through filters instead of pull. This also helped, but would still have the problem of low fuel pressure. I then was forced to pull the heated pickup from the tank, and found a lot of poly within the tank.

Image

I think this was caused by the fuel pickup supplying TOO much heat. also the return line provides heated fuel back into the tank, and expose to air (with exposure to copper weld in the heat exchanger) and long periods of driving without using actively the VO system (because if was clogged).

The corrections made with the system with pushing the VO through the filter, eliminating the return line have improved immensely.
Image

I mention this past experience, so that i can improve the next system. i live in cold climate, and would like to have great switch time, but also intend to use on long trips.

the 1998 dodge cummins seems to have less space in the area firewall drivers side, i would love to see anyone elses layout, to find a location for the heated VO filter, and heat exchanger.
also plans for the system

Plantdrive VM2 filter system
Hydraforce valves - 3 valve system
FP heat exchanger
AN fittings - aluminum or steel fittings only
HIH vo fuel line
aluminum tank in the back http://www.boydwelding.com/products/

, with hot fox pickup, and isspro sending unit.

welcome any help from those that have installed system in the dodge with ABS brake system.

thanks,
88tlc
 
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Postby SunWizard » Sun Dec 05, 2010 9:25 am

That's a mess of poly. Pics and description of my truck (same as yours) here:
1995 Dodge Cummins 4x4 WVO conversion, FPHE, 3 valves
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
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the same and different...

Postby 88tlc » Wed Dec 15, 2010 4:53 pm

SunWizard wrote:That's a mess of poly. Pics and description of my truck (same as yours) here:
1995 Dodge Cummins 4x4 WVO conversion, FPHE, 3 valves


thanks for your message. i have reviewed your set up, and used the 3 valve method on my old 1996 dodge. it worked much better and filters lasted much longer. i will use this 3 valve method to mine.

My engine compartment has more stuff in the area where you put your filter. i think it is the ABS system? i need to find a new home for the filter element and heat exchanger.

i have also considered this tank. smaller, but out of the way. is it baffled? would you like more heating, or more coils around the pickup? you sound like you are also in a cold environment. as long as you get the oil warm enough to flow, the oil can be heated adequately to temp along the way to the valves and IP.
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Re: the same and different...

Postby SunWizard » Thu Dec 16, 2010 12:08 am

88tlc wrote:i have also considered this tank. smaller, but out of the way. is it baffled?

No but it doesn't need it.
would you like more heating, or more coils around the pickup

No its been fine as is. Too much heat is a common problem in tanks.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
SunWizard
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Location: N. Colorado

Big tank

Postby harrisonm3 » Thu Dec 30, 2010 2:47 pm

I would recommend a larger tank. For long trips you never have to get out and fill up. I recently made a trip from Portland to West Yellowstone, MT and back that is over 26 hours of driving.

My 120 Gallon L tank lasted the whole trip.
Have an awesome day
Converted Dodge 2500 97 4x4,
3 valve looped return, Heated pickup, TIH, 31 FPHE.
http://veggiescout.blogspot.com/
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Re: Big tank

Postby 88tlc » Tue Jan 04, 2011 10:29 pm

harrisonm3 wrote:I would recommend a larger tank. For long trips you never have to get out and fill up. I recently made a trip from Portland to West Yellowstone, MT and back that is over 26 hours of driving.

My 120 Gallon L tank lasted the whole trip.


a 120 gallon is a big one! i have also decided to go bigger, to a custom made 42 gallon tank that fits into the front of the bed. my biggest reason was having more fuel capacity, and i needed the access to the side so that i could tie down motorcycles, and need to do this from the sides.

i have been cutting the aluminum to get ready for tig welding. i tried the jig saw and it sucked. but i found that a circ saw with a carbide blade..... it cut the 3/16 5052 aluminum great!Image
88tlc
 
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tank is ready - installing the new WVO design HOT STICK

Postby 88tlc » Wed Jan 12, 2011 11:18 am

the new hot stick from WVO designs

http://www.wvodesigns.com/store/wvo-con ... stick.html

will be installed in my aluminum tank. i would like to use a HIH method, but it pretty tight space.

has anyone used the hot stick yet? would like to see any plumbing examples.



Image[/img]
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Postby harrisonm3 » Thu Jan 13, 2011 2:19 am

Nice looking tank
Have an awesome day
Converted Dodge 2500 97 4x4,
3 valve looped return, Heated pickup, TIH, 31 FPHE.
http://veggiescout.blogspot.com/
harrisonm3
 
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Joined: Wed Oct 29, 2008 9:54 am

Postby mike_belben » Thu Jan 20, 2011 6:08 am

wow thats a thick tank! nice. i fabbed mine from .090 sheet.. just barely doable with my jump shear and brake.
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components for 12 valve cummins

Postby 88tlc » Thu Feb 03, 2011 9:00 pm

The tank is in place, and i am going to use a horizontal heated pickup, using the WVO designs hot stick.http://www.wvodesigns.com/store/wvo-con ... stick.html this heated pickup will be interesting to set up and see how it works. i will use a HIH method with aluminum lines, and heater hose.

Under the hood, i will use aluminum fittings, and stainless braided lines, 3 hydra force valves, and a turbofyner filter.

curious where i can put the filter, and the heat exchanger? my previous cummins had a great space on the drivers side, but this 1998 dodge has what looks like the ABS system? do i need to put the two components on the passenger side? it is farther from the lift pump and injection pump, and my concern is the VO will cool?

Image
88tlc
 
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Postby fro10987 » Sat Feb 05, 2011 8:53 pm

I have a 98 and am running the 3 valve system and think it is great. I have all 3 valves abnd the heat exchanger withe filter for wvo mounted on the passenger side where the battery was ( imoved the 2nd battery to the tool box in the bed alongside the wvo tank. I have no problems with temps of my oil and when I need to fiddle with the valves or filter change it is easy to get to. I will try topost some pics but bnot sure how well that will work. if not posted and you need to see them shoot me an email kfroschauer@cinci.rr.com. tried to post pics but aint going to happen.
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1998 dodge cummins wvo custom install

Postby 88tlc » Thu Apr 14, 2011 10:28 pm

finished up an install on my dodge 1998 cummins. this dodge has an ABS system in the location i have placed so i moved the filter and the heat exchanger to the passenger side in front of the turbo.

I installed the heat exchanger at the bend in the hard line on the dodge cummins. i then flared these hardlines, and mounted the heat exchanger on the alternator bracket. the hard line is still connected to the thermostat housing via rubber hose providing some flex in the system.

Image

Image

the filter is a turbofyner. i like this filter because it uses a large heat exchange heater, but actually uses very little surface area. because if this minimum amount of heat exchange surface area, the orientation is the filter sitting on top of the element

Image

this was just below and adjacent to the heat exchanger, easy to change.

Image

i used hydraforce valves that use a magnet solenoid plunger to switch from NO position, to an activated position. i used three valves

#1 - the fuel selection valve
#2 - the filter selection valve
#3 - the return selection valve

the fuel selection valve is located on the driver side inner fender.

the other two valve are located on the air intake plenum. the VO return Tees into the VO input line and is closed loop. the valves are controlled with a waytek valve i got at greasecar, a double pole, double throw switch with three locations - centered for Diesel fuel, up for VO fuel, and down for purge (diesel fuel, diesel filter, and vo return).

http://order.waytekwire.com/DATASHEET/44323.pdf


Image

i used AN aluminum fittings. i got these from earls, and they have a great selection of unique fittings like ORB, banjo fittings, npt, and IP and diesel fuel filter (14mm and 12 mm fittings). if i have other mods i want to do to the engine, i can easily remove a fitting to gain access. this image shows a short angle fitting and long angle fitting replacing the banjo bolts on diesel fuel filter (and then another fitting from lift pump behind).

Image

a great example is the lift pump line - line i cut off, and used a compression fitting, then to a 3/8 an hose end. this makes a very solid, and clean transition from hard line to flex line.

Image

here is another great example of the IP return fitting. 5/16 hard line, compression fitting, then a fitting that has 1/8 npt for injectors return, then 3/8 line fitting. see image of the valves.


the tank is place in the back of the truck bed. i built a custom aluminum tank, and used a WVO designs hotstick heated pickup. i mounted this in a horizontal position. i think this configuration reduces the likelihood of the polymerization on the hot pickup, exposed to sloshing oil and air. i used an aluminum right angle fitting at the end of the heated pickup so that the VO pickup is about 3/8 inch above the bottom of the tank.

Image

the wvo design uses a npt fittings for the coolant in, and coolant out, and then a npt for the VO output. i configured a Hose in Hose design, and mocked up the aluminum line. when installing, i did not have enough room for a tubing bender, or a flare tool to get in there, so i used a flex line.

Image

finished it looked great. also note that i ran the final length of hose from exchanger to IP along the radiator hose, getting another dose of heat, instead of a chance of cooling.

Image

when the VO and the diesel systems were closed up, i used a vacuum tank to pull fuel from diesel tank, and then switched valves and sucked VO through the lines. this made starting easy.
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Re: new install for a 1998 dodge cummins 12valve - prep

Postby zoochy » Sat Oct 07, 2017 3:50 pm

It would be great to be able to see your pictures.

I'm trying to figure out where/how to place everything on the 1998 I just bought. I put the filter, valves etc. on my 1997 where all of the ABS brake stuff is on the 1998. I was thinking to move the driver side battery to the back but I'd like to see what you did first...
1988 Dodge Ram in progress.
1997 Dodge Ram- 2 tank; Arctic Fox pickup; TIH; Plantdrive VM2 filter; Hydroforce valves
PREVIOUS 91 Toyota Hiace 3L engine >200,000 km on: 88% canola WVO; 11% old gasoline; 0.6% turpentine; 0.3% acetone; 0.1% eye of newt
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