1995 Dodge Cummins 4x4 WVO conversion, FPHE, 3 valves

A description and pics of your SVO WVO Vegetable Oil conversion, help the next person who gets that model.

Moderators: SunWizard, coachgeo

Re: 1995 Dodge Cummins 4x4 WVO conversion, FPHE, 3 valves

Postby vegnomad » Fri Oct 03, 2014 12:11 pm

SunWizard - regarding the HIH, does it need to be a perfectly straight run? Or are you able to contour it (bending by hand) to reach certain locations for your valves or other needs? How long of a run is needed? or feasible?

thx
'98 Dodge 2500 12v cummins - in process of WVO conversion
2003 Jetta TDI - future conversion planned
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Re: 1995 Dodge Cummins 4x4 WVO conversion, FPHE, 3 valves

Postby vegnomad » Fri Oct 03, 2014 12:15 pm

SunWizard wrote:
vegnomad wrote:I have the same concern about the 1/4" valve. It's good to see that yours has worked fine sunwizard.

My engine has had horsepower upgrades (timing, governor springs, 50hp injectors, fuel plate), it has over 300hp and over 800 ft-lbs of torque. So I'm a little concerned about fuel supply line through 1/4". Oddly (but great) the power upgrades had little to no effect on my mileage so maybe it will work just fine.

Are you running larger fuel line before the 1/4" valve?

I have stock fuel line before and after the valves, which is 3/8" OD, 1/4" ID about the same size as 1/4 NPT valve which measures 0.54" OD. The 50 psi that my strong stock lift pump produces is 45 psi more than needed, so a few psi lost in the lines and valves is no problem at all. The overflow valve opens and lets anything above 35 psi go back through the return, so that is 15 psi extra that is wasted all the time.


I was able to find 3/8" valves and ordered them...but it looks like I'll need to reduce to 1/4" at some point anyway. Guess I'll try to run 3/8" for as long as I can.
'98 Dodge 2500 12v cummins - in process of WVO conversion
2003 Jetta TDI - future conversion planned
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1998 12v pictures

Postby vegnomad » Sat Oct 04, 2014 2:50 pm

I haven't been able to find any pictures of a 1998 12v conversion based on Sunwizard's design. Does anybody know of, or have any they can post? My conversion is going to happen this month, and I'd love to see what others have done, specifically where they located stuff under the hood...the 98 has less space than the 94-97. I really don't want oil line running on the exhaust side of the engine. Been looking into running only one battery on the passenger side to make room for the WVO stuff near the IP. Seems feasible with AGM battery and custom double 0 battery harness to positive on driver side.
'98 Dodge 2500 12v cummins - in process of WVO conversion
2003 Jetta TDI - future conversion planned
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Re: 1995 Dodge Cummins 4x4 WVO conversion, FPHE, 3 valves

Postby vegnomad » Mon Oct 06, 2014 8:52 pm

Most FPHE's I find have copper plates and copper brazing. Looks like this is what yours has. After reading about polymerization I'm a little hesitant to have copper in the system, especially right before the IP. I know it doesn't make sense to have the WVO go through the filter after the FPHE from a heat conservation standpoint, but would the filter keep out any poly chains that may have formed? Is this a concern at all? thx.
'98 Dodge 2500 12v cummins - in process of WVO conversion
2003 Jetta TDI - future conversion planned
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Re: 1995 Dodge Cummins 4x4 WVO conversion, FPHE, 3 valves

Postby SunWizard » Tue Oct 07, 2014 9:22 am

Poly needs air, so the main place it forms is the tank where its coated and then exposed above the WVO line. If you use such bad and wet VO that poly forms in the FPHE, which is extremely rare, you will also have it everywhere including all lines. In this case even if you add another filter after the FPHE, it will form in the output side of that filter too, and the lines after the filter, and inside the IP. A tiny clear inline filter just before the IP is a way to see if you have that bad of poly happening, since tiny won't hurt performance like putting the main filter there, and you can visually check for poly chunks.

My visual check is looking inside the tank, since it will form there earlier, and much more than anywhere else. If the tank has no poly, the rest is good. If the tank has poly, the entire system needs checking.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
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Re: 1995 Dodge Cummins 4x4 WVO conversion, FPHE, 3 valves

Postby fueljoule » Tue Jun 02, 2015 6:28 am

SunWizard,

I am I correct in assuming you use the stock temperature gauge to determine when to switch over to WVO?
Would you recommend something like this http://www.greasecar.com/components/temperature-gauge, or can it be gone without?

Additionally, did you put a pressure sensor in your system?

Thank you!
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Re: 1995 Dodge Cummins 4x4 WVO conversion, FPHE, 3 valves

Postby SunWizard » Tue Jun 02, 2015 9:02 am

The stock coolant guage is what I use and its great. Yes I added a fuel pressure guage and highly recommend one.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
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Re: 1995 Dodge Cummins 4x4 WVO conversion, FPHE, 3 valves

Postby veginator » Tue Jun 02, 2015 12:04 pm

SunWizard wrote:... Yes I added a fuel pressure guage and highly recommend one.


What type - mechanical or electrical?

I've all but given up on the electrical senders. They routinely die a few months out of warranty from biodiesel exposure, in my experience (at least three of them now). I think I have to give up on the electrical and plumb a replacement into my A-pillar, which I don't really want to do, since it won't match the others and (more importantly) I'm not crazy about bringing pressurized fuel into the cab, either. Currently all I've got is a sad little mini-gauge on a length of copper tubing under the hood, which severely limits my ability to anticipate a filter-plug problem, since I can't just glance down and see it while driving. (It does minimize time spent by the side of the road, but that's not optimal...)
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Re: 1995 Dodge Cummins 4x4 WVO conversion, FPHE, 3 valves

Postby fueljoule » Tue Jun 02, 2015 2:36 pm

I was also wondering what pressure gauge you use. Is there a type (or brand, etc etc) that you've found to work the best?
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Re: 1995 Dodge Cummins 4x4 WVO conversion, FPHE, 3 valves

Postby veginator » Tue Jun 02, 2015 5:27 pm

Here's the type NOT to touch with a 3M pole: This one is resold by Glowshift but the identical sender is ubiquitous and to be avoided at all costs.

Glowshift people are selling marginal-to-crap stuff in general, which would be semi-OK with me if they wouldn't still hold a hard line on their warranty. They will swear up and down that these senders are rated for biofuels, and then when they go bad a few months after the one-year warranty expires, oh-so-graciously invite you to buy another one. I did this about three times and I wish I could have my money back. As to the gauges, well...the first FP gauge I had got stuck at some point on the scale - again after warranty. With no support from Glowshift, I had nothing to lose by surgically opening the damned thing, and I immediately found the cause: a wire, from factory assembly, had been left such that the slack was just rubbing the movement. That got worse over time, up to the point where it wouldn't move. I poked it out of the way and ghetto-taped the gauge back together, but then the sender went bad. Of course, Glowshift didn't give a rip about that: it was out of warranty.
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Re: 1995 Dodge Cummins 4x4 WVO conversion, FPHE, 3 valves

Postby Tmaxxrox97 » Tue Jun 02, 2015 6:23 pm

Is there an electronic fuel pressure sensor that would work or that someone has had good luck with in veg applications? I've been looking for one to tie into a Arduino veg controller I plan on making but have yet to find one and a mechanical one wouldn't work obviously...

veginator wrote:Here's the type NOT to touch with a 3M pole: This one is resold by Glowshift but the identical sender is ubiquitous and to be avoided at all costs.


I was actually looking at the glowshift one so thank you for pointing me away from it.
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Re: 1995 Dodge Cummins 4x4 WVO conversion, FPHE, 3 valves

Postby SunWizard » Tue Jun 02, 2015 7:22 pm

I used a cheap mechanical oil pressure guage, ~$10 at any auto parts store. It needs a needle valve in the line to smooth out the strong pulses from my lift pump, not all lift pumps need this. See the main post on page 1 for more.

Also this thread: http://www.burnveg.com/forum/post4000.html?hilit=pulses#p4000
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
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Re: 1995 Dodge Cummins 4x4 WVO conversion, FPHE, 3 valves

Postby beeline » Fri Jun 05, 2015 7:23 am

I used a $150 autometer electrical gauge (w/ needle valve in front of sensor) for 4 years now, not a single problem.
1996 dodge diesel, 2 tank heated WVO conversion
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Re: 1995 Dodge Cummins 4x4 WVO conversion, FPHE, 3 valves

Postby Banjoman » Thu Jul 23, 2015 4:48 pm

I've been reading these threads and thought I'd chime in: I think an oil temp gauge right before the IP is a must. It doesn't take long to figure out at what point on the stock coolant temp gauge you have to switch. My last truck had a digital coolant temp gauge but after a while I never looked at it.
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1992 Dodge Cummins
1985 MB 300TD
1997 Dodge Cummins
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Re: 1995 Dodge Cummins 4x4 WVO conversion, FPHE, 3 valves

Postby centrifuge marty » Tue Jul 28, 2015 7:15 pm

I have a 96 cummins converted using sunwizards design and I put a autometer temp gauge right on my plantdrive heated filter . I use that to determine when to switch to veg. When it hits 180 on the gauge I switch, the coolant has already ran through the 30 plate heat exchanger then heads to the tank in my box that has a arctic fox tank heater in it. I also put an autometer temp gauge right before the ip and my oil runs 180 on the hwy with a 180 thermostat which is strange cause I was told that's not possible I have pictures showing the 2 gauges side by side and they are both 180. All my lines are insulated with thick plumbers pipe insulation even my lines to the back tank are insualted and run inside pvc pipe. I live in northern Canada and it gets very cold ran it -30 last winter no issues except oil would cool off when I slowed down. So installed megatherm inline electric heater and that boosted it up too 180 from 165, 170.
Pay the extra and get good gauges autometer are not too expensive and good quality.
1996 Dodge Cummins extended cab 4x4
2-Tank veg oil conversion based on sunwizard design
Plantdrive VM2 filter, 30 fphe, arctic fox in tank heater, manual valves
I love The Smell
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