1995 Dodge Cummins 4x4 WVO conversion, FPHE, 3 valves

A description and pics of your SVO WVO Vegetable Oil conversion, help the next person who gets that model.

Moderators: SunWizard, coachgeo

Postby SunWizard » Mon May 05, 2008 2:04 pm

Ben Howard RD wrote:Is it ok to use a 2nd FPHE instead of the heated fuel line before the transfer pump?

Yes if you do HoH for the long distances so the lines get some heat. Depending on how cold you want to use it at, and type of VO, and other plumbing details, you may not need a 2nd FPHE.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
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Bleeding

Postby gandjwhite » Thu May 15, 2008 1:45 pm

Well, I've now got my whole system put in my 96 Dodge 2500. But, it won't start. I've tried bleeding it like the Chilton manual says--open up the bleeder bolt on the diesel filter and pump the lift pump until fuel instead of bubbles comes out. But, this was taking FOREVER! So, I hooked up a handpump to the line that goes into the IP and started pumping. I was getting a lot of gas and also a lot of air. But, I was pumping and pumping and pumping. I don't see any leaks anywhere. I've got everything like Sunwizard's plan. How long should I expect to pump intil this thing is bled? Is there an easier way? Also, a mechanic I talked to said I have to loosen all the injector lines at the IP and bleed the IP. Then, he said when that is done I also have to bleed each line from the IP to the injector. What do you think? I haven't even attempting to begin bleeding the WVO side!
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Postby SunWizard » Thu May 15, 2008 2:06 pm

I haven't had to bleed by loosening injectors. I pressurized the WVO tank to about 5 psi, it was handy that I added a tire stem for a vent. Then waited for all the air to be out of the WVO side at the line connected to the tee before the IP, by running it into a jar. Air on the WVO side will prevent the diesel side from working. And I started out my testing with b100 on the WVO side since its thinner, Diesel would bleed air better too. This allowed me to switch back and forth right away, before the engine was warmed up, good for testing.

You could take off the return hose and see if you have anything coming out when you crank, that is the sign the IP is getting fuel. The manual is right you want to bleed air from the highest point which is probably the bolt on the filter.
Last edited by SunWizard on Tue Sep 21, 2010 10:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
SunWizard
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Postby Freeman » Fri May 16, 2008 12:06 pm

Sun-Wizard

I just took the maiden voyage in my 97 dodge 1 ton dually, Thanks 1,000,000 WOOHOOOOOOOOOOOOOO..........

I had to stick my head in the exhaust and take a few deep breaths just to believe it.


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Postby Freeman » Mon May 19, 2008 8:27 am

SunWizard

I forgot to change my return line and have contaminated my Veg tank with some diesel. My veg tank is about 6 gallons (just a temporary tank) and I have put about 1 to 1.5 gallons of diesel in it. Should I empty the tank? Will Vo and Diesel separate or do they mix? From reading other posts I know it's not good to heat the diesel fuel up to 160.

As for shut down: switch to diesel, wait 20 sec. Switch to diesel filter, wait 20 sec. switch return line, wait 2 minutes. Right??



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Postby SunWizard » Mon May 19, 2008 8:56 am

Freeman wrote:SunWizard
I forgot to change my return line and have contaminated my Veg tank with some diesel. My veg tank is about 6 gallons (just a temporary tank) and I have put about 1 to 1.5 gallons of diesel in it. Should I empty the tank? Will Vo and Diesel separate or do they mix? From reading other posts I know it's not good to heat the diesel fuel up to 160.

Its fine, it won't separate, burn it. Heating D2 is fine as long as there is more than 2%VO in it, see the lubricity thread.
As for shut down: switch to diesel, wait 20 sec. Switch to diesel filter, wait 20 sec. switch return line, wait 2 minutes. Right??

Correct at idle. Less if you are driving.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
SunWizard
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Posts: 1723
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:53 pm
Location: N. Colorado

Postby VegMeister » Fri May 23, 2008 5:01 pm

I'm getting ready to convert my dad's truck! He's driving out from the west coast with his 98 12valve. Obviously I'm going to follow your conversion very closely, even using TiH and through the floor valve (I'm still probably only going to use one valve and 2 electric lift pumps, just because that worked so nicely on my GMC (i.e. I never ever ran into bleeding problems, on either system. Simply running the diesel lift pump for a while would solve any starting problems I had, everytime I tore everything apart).

But can you guys help me with the measurements? I need to get enough aluminum tubing to run from the tank in the bed up to the FPHE, and I'm planning on routing it the same way as SunWizard did. Did anyone bother to measure these things before buying their parts? Can you give me the measurements, if you wrote them down? If I had the truck in the driveway I'd measure myself. But we're not going to have much time once he gets here and I want to have all the parts ready to go.
centralvalleybiodiesel CF
1993 GMC Sierra K2500 6.5L + homebuilt veg kit, OEM glowplug failure (update: rebuilt with a 6.2 block, working fine)
1988 Ford 6.9L OEM dual tank, 90+% veg oil blend.
1989 Ford 7.3L, 80+% veg oil blend.
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question about the diagram

Postby Ben Howard RD » Mon Jun 23, 2008 12:35 am

Instead of the 3 way valve going back to the diesel tank, can I get rid of that 3 way valve, tap the return hose on the diesel tank and have everything return back to the lift pump? Veg oil is going back to the lift pump so why not the diesel too?

Thanks!
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Re: question about the diagram

Postby SunWizard » Mon Jun 23, 2008 1:28 pm

Ben Howard RD wrote:IVeg oil is going back to the lift pump so why not the diesel too?

The return to tank is useful incase you get any air in the lines it gets removed every time you switch to return to tank. Very useful when you do a filter change and a small amount of air gets in the lines. And doing a return to tank allows a purge to be much quicker.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
SunWizard
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Posts: 1723
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:53 pm
Location: N. Colorado

Postby Freeman » Sat Jun 28, 2008 6:33 pm

Sun Wizard

I had posted a question about my impossible to read fuel pressure gage. You had suggested adding a needle valve, so I got one from Mcmaster carr. The orifice through the valve is a lot smaller than my 3/8" fuel line. Do I install the needle valve in to the fuel line? or between the fuel pressure gage and the fuel line?
Here is the part # of the one I got 4559K36, It may be the wrong one??

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Postby SunWizard » Mon Jul 07, 2008 9:13 pm

Freeman wrote:I had posted a question about my impossible to read fuel pressure gage. You had suggested adding a needle valve, so I got one from Mcmaster carr. The orifice through the valve is a lot smaller than my 3/8" fuel line. Do I install the needle valve in to the fuel line? or between the fuel pressure gage and the fuel line?

It goes in the line between where its tee'd in and the guage to restrict the flow pulses only in the guage. The small orifice is the whole point.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
SunWizard
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Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:53 pm
Location: N. Colorado

Postby Ben Howard RD » Thu Jul 10, 2008 12:57 pm

Sun, did you cut the banjo fitting lines and just put fuel line over it with a clamp? If yes, how is that holding up?

Thanks
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Postby SunWizard » Thu Jul 10, 2008 1:50 pm

Ben Howard RD wrote:Sun, did you cut the banjo fitting lines and just put fuel line over it with a clamp? If yes, how is that holding up?

Thanks

All of my connections are cut stock metal lines with rubber hose clamped over them and they are fine after 2 years of abuse.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
SunWizard
Site Admin
 
Posts: 1723
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:53 pm
Location: N. Colorado

Postby Ben Howard RD » Thu Jul 10, 2008 4:38 pm

Do you see any issues with the diesel tank and vegi tank using the same Cim-Tek filter? I am doing a bypass for vegi to FPHE so the diesel doesn't get too hot like your design. I have a modification to the design where I only have to cut the fuel line that goes to the IP, but I would have to have shared filters to do it. I found a 12mm fitting with 3/8 barb to go in the output of the fuel/water canister. From there it goes to my 3 way valve where I route diesel directly to the IP and route vegi to the FPHE. But they both use the canister. So I was wondering if sharing filters in general is ok. I plan on doing a diesel vegi mix in the diesel tank anyway.
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Postby SunWizard » Thu Jul 10, 2008 7:45 pm

Sharing filters is a bad idea. It makes your purge time very long, and if you clog a filter you can't simply flip a switch and keep going. And you are much more likely to clog a filter since there often will be some residual VO on the filter and plugging it at cold startup.
YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary.
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 SVO WVO conversion.
81 Mercedes 300D- stock and happy on V80/D20 blend.
Low fossil net zero house- 100% solar power and heat.
SunWizard
Site Admin
 
Posts: 1723
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:53 pm
Location: N. Colorado

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